tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14132215785166202912024-03-05T20:39:36.652-05:00Just One Point Of View [justonepov.com]Things Worth Writing About (By @yagelski)Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.comBlogger74125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-62157181288382918132022-12-23T17:35:00.000-05:002022-12-23T17:35:15.711-05:00Fjorden Camera Grip Solution for MagSafe iPhone Case<span style="font-family: verdana;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxIN6S8GXpCY32s9cIoZmUjnf-OcUe5f2_-AYnHNG0YqUpM3p0iBnfdLAynNkiwSYZfTENn6GWEuOIJ-jloHzW2bQ6NJaL4SutyAqvvjtt1YoIrNbJAEVNrNHI0achoYAp4qzwvGHRwHJbWJKLZ1iYs32MHuEpVVhHN2QJYZkahLKKqGVJGlyUUzmSsA/s3024/IMG_0184.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxIN6S8GXpCY32s9cIoZmUjnf-OcUe5f2_-AYnHNG0YqUpM3p0iBnfdLAynNkiwSYZfTENn6GWEuOIJ-jloHzW2bQ6NJaL4SutyAqvvjtt1YoIrNbJAEVNrNHI0achoYAp4qzwvGHRwHJbWJKLZ1iYs32MHuEpVVhHN2QJYZkahLKKqGVJGlyUUzmSsA/s320/IMG_0184.heic" width="320" /></a></div>We were very excited about our purchase and receipt of the innovative <a href="https://shop.fjorden.co" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Fjorden Camera Grip</a> for our iPhone. The grip is a fantastic accessory for the iPhone, helping to create an authentic SLR camera experience with the convenience of using the phone in your pocket! </span><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our purchase included the Fjorden MagSafe case for iPhone. The case worked perfectly. However, we <i>really</i> like our <a href="https://www.padandquill.com/cases-for-iphone.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Pad & Quill</a> leather iPhone wallet, and it was rather inconvenient to have to remove the phone from the wallet and install it in the Fjorden MagSafe case every time we wanted to use the FJorden grip. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">This led us to make a few simple modifications to the Fjorden MagSafe case to allow us to use the Fjorden grip with our Pad & Quill leather iPhone wallet. It was a very simple adaption that works well for our purposes. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">Here are the steps to our solution. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRT2v_Ft5jSgzpalmawo0KgNUB6cVsI267R-R7kXTutdZ-03ZxbZEshA4xY0n3HlfWPUsQbiol-dQLYFdYj839a4r1IciFSmcar49i-w3bc1AjA3Sf3ZRzMj8AtYV-c8b6H8iaxTB04kpDOJzchf7JlyuWmRM8-xQ3IdqEQ4Iz8V_R4k3eWZwRcMsg8g/s1809/IMG_0157.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1809" data-original-width="1809" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRT2v_Ft5jSgzpalmawo0KgNUB6cVsI267R-R7kXTutdZ-03ZxbZEshA4xY0n3HlfWPUsQbiol-dQLYFdYj839a4r1IciFSmcar49i-w3bc1AjA3Sf3ZRzMj8AtYV-c8b6H8iaxTB04kpDOJzchf7JlyuWmRM8-xQ3IdqEQ4Iz8V_R4k3eWZwRcMsg8g/w200-h201/IMG_0157.heic" width="200" /></a></div>1) Cut the back from the Fjorden MagSafe case to provide the foundation for connecting the Fjorden grip to the leather wallet. We used a sharp utility knife and metal straightedge to trim the flat portion away from the edge of the Fjorden MagSafe case. We'll refer to the resulting piece as the "Fjorden foundation" for the rest of these instructions. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">2) Obtain a <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B097CGPZV3/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">magnetic mounting plate</a> to attach to the Fjoden foundation. We found a good option on Amazon with the brand name, <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/stores/Encased/page/C99301C1-7FAB-4FB8-A16E-505D346A863B" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Encased</a>. It's a thin magnetic mount designed to match the MagSafe diameter. It fits perfectly in the MagSafe space provided on the Pad & Quill leather case. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCXjK7vr0zhP8iVxED5ZB_uVJQLuM5ItvTHWH3H0NT1V7d4MHBsCzpajzHAutopRhgvJsC33ggO7OtpzqUTJyjMzrJVgE3R8qJDfBbI607VbwE8wK7zyX0KWOpC-agqXacNq2LD1rNhs6kgOHdE6beT_Jk7mLnygoV0I3bZOT0Tm7MkHNXaJcCKXwpQ/s1728/IMG_0162.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1728" data-original-width="1728" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCXjK7vr0zhP8iVxED5ZB_uVJQLuM5ItvTHWH3H0NT1V7d4MHBsCzpajzHAutopRhgvJsC33ggO7OtpzqUTJyjMzrJVgE3R8qJDfBbI607VbwE8wK7zyX0KWOpC-agqXacNq2LD1rNhs6kgOHdE6beT_Jk7mLnygoV0I3bZOT0Tm7MkHNXaJcCKXwpQ/w200-h200/IMG_0162.heic" width="200" /></a></div>3) Epoxy the magnetic mounting plate to the Fjorden foundation. After removing the thin felt covering from the Fjorden foundation and cleaning the surface for good adhesion, the MagSafe mounting plate was epoxied in the correct location. Be certain that the Fjorden foundation does not interfere with the iPhone camera lenses and that it places the Fjorden grip in the optimal location for ease of use.
</span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">4) After the epoxy has dried and the magnetic mounting plate is secure, attach the Fjoden grip to the modified Fjoden foundation and place it on the iPhone leather wallet. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;">That's it! If your magnetic mounting plate has adequate magnetic strength, the Fjorden grip should now be securely in place on the leather wallet and ready for use. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmyQ7s7hdieWsG5OtDs2w4IBh4dCJ0n2uHulkl1y4wVRxMMttVmWYgqPU7utWweghFWvZ9dX1SrHPgl8Gg0vzw7Vq1_HMeQSnEOeEFlVvFfn6NuRG6RjT-NP_OBwL4OZTO8lZUoCPDnWSd70Oi4GC0fnrzlWAnlYHdz_SYnMaM8CXDFtm9xKA9RsGYfQ/s2781/IMG_0168.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2781" data-original-width="2781" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmyQ7s7hdieWsG5OtDs2w4IBh4dCJ0n2uHulkl1y4wVRxMMttVmWYgqPU7utWweghFWvZ9dX1SrHPgl8Gg0vzw7Vq1_HMeQSnEOeEFlVvFfn6NuRG6RjT-NP_OBwL4OZTO8lZUoCPDnWSd70Oi4GC0fnrzlWAnlYHdz_SYnMaM8CXDFtm9xKA9RsGYfQ/w200-h200/IMG_0168.heic" width="200" /></a></div>This was a great way for us to adapt the Fjorden grip for use with our iPhone leather wallet and avoids the need to exchange the iPhone case when we want to take photos using the camera grip. Maybe this will give you some ideas on how you can use the Fjorden grip with your phone.</span></div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-18859674045154004772020-05-17T12:44:00.002-04:002020-05-17T12:46:07.346-04:00iPhone 11 Max Screen Black or Frozen. Problem Solved!<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">When we are not traveling or depending on mobile data plans, we try to keep our Apple devices on our local WiFi network with automatic updates selected to make certain the latest version of iOS is always installed. This choice has served us well for many years for many different models of the Apple iPod, iPad, and iPhone.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Well, our luck ran out. During a recent overnight update to iOS on an iPhone 11 Pro, we had what appeared to be a "bricked" device. The iPhone screen was black and no combination of button presses, cable connections, or wireless chargers seemed to be able to wake the phone.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">A search through the Apple online support resources surprisingly did not provide much help, so we called Apple Support and received this assistance; information that we were not able to find online.</span><br />
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If your screen is black or frozen, you need to force restart your device. A force restart won't erase
the content on your device. You can force restart your device even if the screen is black or the buttons
aren't responding.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmN-YiZTYpBPCYb47m-3qEUGesXAd1TVcINsS-wyNpQyXYr_uq5-HjvN8tvVZ4aGedfwOWT4a6V2azFRj3dg90KnycKSDFSzxIXNcH9wlkIgbLs8L1BC2z-nF5YlfylNrFmU1xMECzT2F8/s1600/iPhone_Buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="950" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmN-YiZTYpBPCYb47m-3qEUGesXAd1TVcINsS-wyNpQyXYr_uq5-HjvN8tvVZ4aGedfwOWT4a6V2azFRj3dg90KnycKSDFSzxIXNcH9wlkIgbLs8L1BC2z-nF5YlfylNrFmU1xMECzT2F8/s320/iPhone_Buttons.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">For iPhone models with Face ID, press and quickly release the Volume Up button. Press and quickly release
the Volume Down button. Then press and hold the Side button until the device restarts.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">We had to repeat this force reset process several times before the iPhone 11 actually "woke up."</span></div>
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Once awake, the phone needs to complete the failed iOS update process. Plug the phone into a computer with iTunes installed. When you get the option to restore or update, choose Update. Your computer will try to reinstall iOS without erasing your data.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWMr2ZD7ldXxNcc3z5wjm-RFi4-mw_99Hq8hsfvE892Omvg2121L6XSbTgGYHPInZjShEbJEHzdiu00SQwa1T560XAPmBNfzhKKjRp3No4Gt2oTzTyEiB6WD2_4NX83EyYi2VOBBBkmBY/s1600/iPhone_Update.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="678" data-original-width="1366" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWMr2ZD7ldXxNcc3z5wjm-RFi4-mw_99Hq8hsfvE892Omvg2121L6XSbTgGYHPInZjShEbJEHzdiu00SQwa1T560XAPmBNfzhKKjRp3No4Gt2oTzTyEiB6WD2_4NX83EyYi2VOBBBkmBY/s400/iPhone_Update.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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These steps successfully recovered our iPhone 11 Max from the failed iOS update and restored the phone with no data loss. Crisis adverted and problem solved!</div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-6683616083035703472020-04-15T22:29:00.001-04:002020-04-15T22:30:41.697-04:00Google Admin Console Access Without A Google G Suite AccountOver the years we have created several special-purpose blogs using the convenient Blogger host service from Google. Instead of using the default blogspot.com domain for the blogs' URL, we opted to use Google's domain service to register a unique domain name. Google makes that option incredibly easy, and we greatly appreciated using the feature that is built-in to Blogger instead of having to use a stand-alone domain registration service and then having to edit the various MX records to point back to the Blogger site.<br />
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These blogs were only needed for a limited amount of time and we had no desire to keep them active forever. It is easy enough to delete the blog on Blogger. In fact, Google even allows you to download the blog content for posterity before you delete the blog. However, the domain registration lives on and will continue to renew each year if you have provided Google with a valid credit card account.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzognslYxE9-IEU4V7-TbTw_VHkBwpXhdjdTPseCEFdbgdKdIci1KywNuVqqxHnNLU7RZzPijCehKkzsfgKDuzXeG7PWPozLU0lLDYKyZ5MJK2aWjeoTI4LFDi2acMaAmJTkZFXhASzAU/s1600/GSuite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="700" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTzognslYxE9-IEU4V7-TbTw_VHkBwpXhdjdTPseCEFdbgdKdIci1KywNuVqqxHnNLU7RZzPijCehKkzsfgKDuzXeG7PWPozLU0lLDYKyZ5MJK2aWjeoTI4LFDi2acMaAmJTkZFXhASzAU/s200/GSuite.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
In Google's domain renewal notices, they instruct you to "sign in to your Google Admin console" to manage your domain registration renewals. This is necessary to either update your payment information or to cancel your domain registration. It would seem that signing on to your Google Admin console would be simple enough. The trouble is, Google requires a G Suite admin account to access the Google Admin console. If you try to use your Gmail account information, you receive the following error message, "admin.google.com is used for G Suite accounts only. Regular Gmail accounts cannot be used to sign in to admin.google.com."<br />
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Having created our domain registration within Blogger, we did not have a G Suite admin account, so what were we supposed to do? We scoured the G Suite support pages and made dozens of Google searches and found no clues. Finally, in the G Suite Administrator Community, we found an obscure mention of a special admin account that allows Blogger users to access the Google Admin console to manage their domain registration.<br />
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You can use bloggeradmin@<i>yourdomain.com</i> (where <i>yourdomain.com</i> is your domain name) to log into your Google Admin console, even if you don't have a G Suite admin account.<br />
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Presto!<br />
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This information allowed us to cancel our domain registration services that had been automatically renewing despite our best efforts. We hope it helps you too.Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-29827954209202519932016-05-23T00:14:00.000-04:002016-05-23T00:14:15.379-04:00Drobo 5N NAS Keeps Losing Network Connection - Problem Solved!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8-DYdvOGK9zZeFjI64gfp_6tAW4gg62m1zaDXxdeJDUtMHRdVGQ-VWdJy9U3SatOB-mdTpN2pt8Y40abupruCy1hstoTjDFf1zShv5OyCFeH9snh5D0oxLWuJsXq0ylFuT4vmxB1vf3PK/s1600/drobo5n.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8-DYdvOGK9zZeFjI64gfp_6tAW4gg62m1zaDXxdeJDUtMHRdVGQ-VWdJy9U3SatOB-mdTpN2pt8Y40abupruCy1hstoTjDFf1zShv5OyCFeH9snh5D0oxLWuJsXq0ylFuT4vmxB1vf3PK/s200/drobo5n.png" width="183" /></a><br />
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A few months back, I decided to upgrade our home network's disk storage solution from several SATA drives housed in a network-connected, vintage Apple Mac Pro to a brand spanking new <a href="http://www.drobo.com/storage-products/5n/" target="_blank">Drobo 5N network-attached storage ("NAS") device</a>. The Drobo 5N is a 5-bay disk array with a gigabit wired ethernet connection. This solution is a great way to provide massive amounts of upgradeable disk storage to every computer on your local area network.</div>
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After an easy set-up and uneventful data migration, we were ready to experience high-performance data access across all of the devices on the home LAN. Unfortunately, I was perplexed and somewhat dismayed at the initial poor quality of the Drobo performance... or at least what I thought was the fault of the Drobo 5N.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGymeId5KDMo3IeSe2B2hrFF1BMg2ZoY6d-4syJbVoJxHJnAL-GgwfH6Py8MO-ZV-2rReGYxwKSDnue0P-eEAQD6ZivotuspPf6zJ5m8dBEuQCcvkLCyJxf29phwgEmhUSVHY1623drsR/s1600/fiosquantum.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGymeId5KDMo3IeSe2B2hrFF1BMg2ZoY6d-4syJbVoJxHJnAL-GgwfH6Py8MO-ZV-2rReGYxwKSDnue0P-eEAQD6ZivotuspPf6zJ5m8dBEuQCcvkLCyJxf29phwgEmhUSVHY1623drsR/s200/fiosquantum.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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Data transfer speeds were very mediocre and the connection to the NAS would drop intermittently for what seemed to be no apparent reason. This would happen for computers accessing the NAS device through either a hard-wired ethernet or wi-fi connection, both being provided via a <a href="https://www.verizon.com/home/accessories/fios-quantum-gateway/" target="_blank">Verizon FiOS Quantum Gateway</a>.</div>
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The AC1750 Quantum Gateway is advertised to feature gigabit wired ethernet, and 802-11 bfg / nfac, 2.4 and 5.0 GHz wi-fi speeds up to 800 Mbps. However, the data transfer rates I was observing were painfully slower than this.</div>
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Was the problem the Drobo 5N, the FiOS Quantum Gateway, or maybe something else? </div>
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We decided to start with troubleshooting the network and the easiest components to test were the ethernet cables that interconnect the various network devices. Test the cables? Yes. We've discovered that ethernet cables can be a not-so-obvious weak point in any network. Don't be fooled that more expensive cables are better quality. Bad connectors. Stretched and kinked cables. Cheap materials. All of these factors are contributors to poor data communications and slow speeds and all problems that can be discovered in both cheap and expensive ethernet cables.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0yl9Ura345-qOt0Y7HRuNSnGjj33xuU0wVn3jk2ZZ9fWxNdKLGIimfXETZyp2kwzfMevobFFy7LLCGGzlOSc6L90HeTgnaCr0S3OqsIkMNDNYflt5MOQckVHbd3qIMWHBZrX_FIDh-LQ/s1600/cabletester.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0yl9Ura345-qOt0Y7HRuNSnGjj33xuU0wVn3jk2ZZ9fWxNdKLGIimfXETZyp2kwzfMevobFFy7LLCGGzlOSc6L90HeTgnaCr0S3OqsIkMNDNYflt5MOQckVHbd3qIMWHBZrX_FIDh-LQ/s200/cabletester.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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A cable tester does not need to be costly to be effective. We found a very inexpensive, generic <a href="http://smile.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W?" target="_blank">RJ45 / RJ11 / Cat 5 / Cat 6 cable tester</a> available online years ago, and it has proven to be one of the best tools in the shop drawer. Simply plug your subject cable into the two ports of the tester and observe if there are any short or open circuits.</div>
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Wouldn't you know it? The ethernet cable connecting the Drobo 5N to the router had an open circuit and was only working at 10 Mbps; that's only one percent of the gigabit speed we expected and an obvious bottleneck in the connection to the NAS. We also found faults in cables that connected a network printer and our <a href="http://www.att.com/att/microcell/" target="_blank">AT&T MicroCell Wireless Network Extender</a>. All-in-all, testing the ethernet cables proved to be a worthwhile exercise!</div>
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With new cables in place, we were pleased to experience a meaningful improvement in network performance. However, data speeds were still a bit lackluster and the connection to the NAS would still drop intermittently. With all of the ethernet ports on the Verizon FiOS Quantum Gateway in use, we suspected that the device was possibly being taxed beyond its capability. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeTbGspBmFrABAPPe_czsTbkCpEonrrREnxFraJtOObpl1HF9-dCOfx3z91_n1wxd74QnuMcdk5hyJK8MmE3A8Ncw16xm9dlbgCI0lS72I4yR1PQ8jVhoaKh4NrftPrE7X1zb1BT0Liys/s1600/netgearprosafegs108.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="85" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeTbGspBmFrABAPPe_czsTbkCpEonrrREnxFraJtOObpl1HF9-dCOfx3z91_n1wxd74QnuMcdk5hyJK8MmE3A8Ncw16xm9dlbgCI0lS72I4yR1PQ8jVhoaKh4NrftPrE7X1zb1BT0Liys/s200/netgearprosafegs108.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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While the FiOS Quantum Gateway has proven to be a speedy and worthy Internet access point, we believe that it's not an ethernet routing workhorse. Our experience is that all in-one devices typically do not perform all tasks equally well. We decided to place the responsibility of the network's ethernet routing on a device designed to do just that. While it may not have been normal practice to use a stand-alone network switch in a home network in the past, the introduction of more and more network devices makes it a more much more common practice. We selected the <a href="http://www.netgear.com/business/products/switches/unmanaged/GS108.aspx?cid=gwmng" target="_blank">NETGEAR ProSAFE Gigabit Model GS108 Unmanaged Switch</a> to do the heavy lifting on our LAN. </div>
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With a dedicated network switch and good ethernet cables all around, the home network suddenly came alive, and both wired and wireless connections to the Drobo 5N proved to be fast and reliable. No more lost connections. No more slow data transfer speeds.</div>
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This experience proved to me that it's important to consider all of the system's components when troubleshooting poor performance. Please consider using the same kind of scrutiny when looking for your own local area network bottleneck.</div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-77993107328354210372015-02-15T19:31:00.001-05:002015-02-15T19:33:09.807-05:00Ford Escape Hybrid - Electric Motor Cooling Pump Safety Recall<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was four years ago that I published a blog post with do it yourself repair instructions or a failed electric motor cooling pump on a 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid. You can read that popular article in its entirety by browsing to <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2011/02/ford-escape-hybrid-electric-motor.html" target="_blank">Ford Escape Hybrid - Electric Motor Cooling Pump, Do It Yourself Repair</a>.</div>
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The article was popular in-part because the problem was so common. It seems that many who owned a 2005-2008 FEH or 2006-2008 Mecury Mariner Hybrid had experienced a failed coolant pump. Mine had failed twice during the seven years that I owned the vehicle.</div>
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It may have happened to you... receiving a "High Motor Temperature" message and the warning to "Stop Vehicle Safely." If you had ignored those messages, your vehicle would literally shut down in the middle of the road.</div>
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The problem is with the faulty Motor Electronics Cooling System ("MECS") and is resolved by replacing the Motor Electronics Cooling Pump (Part Number: 5M6Z-8C419-A). Ford even issued a Technical Service Bulletin for this problem (TSB 08-24-5) only a few months after the vehicle had started production!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuvme_9JGco1cEdumKDcL1ZVKYsnCg4bFt291CRDp80FRYDHPeYZ9NWwtGtKcoX55mUBGnTob5Rm0AD-k7eZyFGZw-BAfRomfAM8bHeY2avasKlMSBaq8l0FSSMI0aLCx1gqZJoaubpgFy/s1600/ford+logo+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuvme_9JGco1cEdumKDcL1ZVKYsnCg4bFt291CRDp80FRYDHPeYZ9NWwtGtKcoX55mUBGnTob5Rm0AD-k7eZyFGZw-BAfRomfAM8bHeY2avasKlMSBaq8l0FSSMI0aLCx1gqZJoaubpgFy/s1600/ford+logo+1.png" height="150" width="320" /></a>Well, imagine my surprise to have recently received a letter from Ford Motor Company with a message about an IMPORTANT SAFETY RECALL. Safety Recall Notice 14S19 / NHTSA Recall 14V-526 was issued in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act, and provides for the repair of the Motor Electronics Coolant Pump. A repair that many of us have already had to pay for out of our own pocket.</div>
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If you have not completed this repair on your Escape / Mariner Hybrid, you should contact a Ford dealership's Service Advisor. </div>
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If you have already completed this repair and have kept all of your original receipts for the repair work, you may request a refund from Ford. Original receipts only. No photocopies. For more information, contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center at 1-866-436-7332.</div>
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While almost ten years too late to help me (my first MECS failure occurred when the vehicle was only a few months old and at 17,000 miles), maybe this information will help you.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfqZzD9EamMt9wyaZbqHTBZH31cE2sDkz-cizol9ICgvjtHb93n4zlhf6c4HX52Qqh5wVLQS-NLb7fw8MQJmgBkhcNMO7ICcyf7UTTLZ-fR2c5_YA6w15ruAJfbRz0SnG0eyCmnUJqJ4cf/s1600/new_nhtsa_logo.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfqZzD9EamMt9wyaZbqHTBZH31cE2sDkz-cizol9ICgvjtHb93n4zlhf6c4HX52Qqh5wVLQS-NLb7fw8MQJmgBkhcNMO7ICcyf7UTTLZ-fR2c5_YA6w15ruAJfbRz0SnG0eyCmnUJqJ4cf/s1600/new_nhtsa_logo.gif" height="105" width="200" /></a>It will be interesting to see if the NHTSA every comes to their senses and requires Ford to address the much more important issue of Ford Escape Hybrid brake failure. This problem has cost Escape / Mariner owners much more time and money to resolve, and in some cases has resulted in accidents putting the vehicle occupants in grave danger.</div>
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You can read more about my experience with the failure of the regenerative braking system by viewing my other articles: <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2010/01/my-ford-escape-hybrid-brake-repair.html" target="_blank">My Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Repair Experience - The Brakes Broke the Bank!</a>; <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2010/07/ford-hybrid-brake-failure-revisited.html" target="_blank">Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Failure - Revisited</a>; and <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2012/02/ford-escape-hybrid-brake-master.html" target="_blank">Ford Escape Hybrid - Brake Master Cylinder / HCU Failure and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)</a>. </div>
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I've since sold my 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid, and the poor manner in which several Ford dealerships treated this important safety and reliability issue has committed me to never purchase another Ford product. I chuckle that the NHTSA tag line is "People saving people." A safety recall issued ten years after the vehicle is documented to have first had the problem is crazy, and both Ford and the NHTSA should be embarrassed by their inaction.</div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-53935155037520892902013-11-16T10:54:00.003-05:002022-10-01T13:54:47.031-04:00Ken's Chili<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgxHWtnArI8K6HLqXCLFeo5vZxdk3w1Kwz8IM2AaeG_jFue5e2mjgcAyxHNSs1aQEHZQ_b46NLKXHGVKYlU3cFnh2MobedHNMPbQEW7noSiij1lEve9YAfPUzbtzfNWDija_vjEOdj64n9/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgxHWtnArI8K6HLqXCLFeo5vZxdk3w1Kwz8IM2AaeG_jFue5e2mjgcAyxHNSs1aQEHZQ_b46NLKXHGVKYlU3cFnh2MobedHNMPbQEW7noSiij1lEve9YAfPUzbtzfNWDija_vjEOdj64n9/s320/photo.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Everyone likes their chili differently, and I am no exception. Here is a recipe that I have fine-tuned over many years for an easy-to-prepare, delicious chili. I seldom hear any complaints from my guests. </div>
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I use a slow-cooker. It's easy and the slow cooking makes certain that you don't impart a burnt flavor. I also like how the slow cooking breaks down the ground beef into very fine, tender pieces. My favorite model has a low setting for 8-10 hours. I will often start the process in the late evening and allow it to cook over night. </div>
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The recipe easily scales-up for the amount of chili that you want. Each pound of ground beef makes about four servings. The exact amount of each of these ingredients is approximate. Don't get hung-up on being precise. It's cooking for goodness sake, have some fun in the kitchen! </div>
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Ingredients: </div>
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For EACH pound of ground beef you will need... </div>
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1 Tsp garlic seasoning, or diced garlic. </div>
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1 Tsp onion seasoning, or diced onion. </div>
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1 - 12 oz bottle of beer. I prefer Sam Adams Boston Lager for cooking. Your choice. However, the darker the beer, the more of the yeast and hops flavor you will enjoy in the chili. </div>
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2 - 14.5 oz cans of diced tomatoes. Your choice on type: plain or with peppers, onions, etc. Feel free to dice your own; I'm too lazy. </div>
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1 - 10 oz can of tomato soup. Plain old Campbell's Tomato Soup.
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Chili seasoning. Your choice here. I am not too proud to simply use a pre-packaged chili mix most of the time. Brand is not important. I do not like my chili spicy hot... only spicy flavorful. If you have a concoction of pepper and spices that works for you, use it. It's the other things I use in this recipe that give this chili its special flavor.</div>
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4 Tbsp flour. Corn flour is best (masa, NOT corn meal), but regular white flour is fine too. </div>
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4 Tbsp brown sugar. </div>
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Milk chocolate (to taste). Not semi-sweet or dark chocolate, but MILK chocolate. I use about 2 Tbsp. </div>
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- or - </div>
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Grape jelly (to taste). I use about 2 Tbsp. </div>
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Salt (to taste) </div>
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Black pepper (to taste) </div>
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Instructions: </div>
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- Turn the slow cooker on low. </div>
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- Place the fresh / thawed ground beef in the slow cooker and use a wooden spoon to break up and loosen the meat. </div>
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- Add the garlic and onion (seasoning or fresh), beer, diced tomatoes, tomato soup, and chili seasoning of choice. </div>
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- Stir completely and thoroughly. </div>
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- Cover and allow to cook. It does not hurt to uncover and stir occasionally, but it is not necessary if your slow cooker is on a low setting. </div>
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- After 6 to 8 hours </div>
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- Turn off the slow cooker. </div>
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- Uncover and BEFORE stirring, ladle-off any surface oil. This step may not be necessary depending upon the ground beef. Some has less fat than others. </div>
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- Stir thoroughly. </div>
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- Lightly spread the flour on top, and stir into the chili. The flour adds both taste and texture. You may use more or less to your taste. </div>
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- Lightly spread the brown sugar on top, and stir into the chili. You may use more or less to your taste.</div>
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- Add the milk chocolate - or - grape jelly, and stir into the chili. Do not use both. Each one provides a unique flavor, but I do not think that they go well together in the chili. Experiment and choose the one that you like best. </div>
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- Do not add the brown sugar and milk chocolate / grape jelly until the long slow cooking process is complete. If you add it at the beginning, the sugar is likely to burn on the bottom of the slow cooker and leave you with a bitter flavor. </div>
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- Salt and pepper to taste. I wait for this step to the very end as the need for salt will depend upon your other ingredients. Extra salt may not be needed for your taste. Don't over-salt early, as it's very hard to undo later. </div>
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Serving: </div>
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Notice there are NO BEANS. Sorry, but chili was not meant to have beans. Since some people like beans with their chili, I will prepare them separately so that they can be added by choice.
Everyone in the family likes to be creative when eating their chili. I like mine on a bed of corn chips, topped with shredded cheese and sour cream. The kids like a bed of pasta (your choice) or saltines. Diced onion or jalapeños are good on top as well. There is no right or wrong way to serve chili at our house. </div>
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Enjoy!
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Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-63290536876532102622013-04-08T22:14:00.000-04:002014-08-16T11:24:39.136-04:00Embedding a Moot Forum in Google Blogger<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Moot</b> is a re-imagined forum application introduced as a beta version in April 2013. In the developers' own words, "Moot is a radically different discussion platform, unencumbered by the weight of unnecessary features and distractions. It places the conversation back to the forefront. Clean user interface, persistent content and deep integration into the site will allow a more natural and meaningful discussion to take place. People will focus on topics they care about."</div>
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You can read more about Moot at <a href="http://moot.it/" target="_blank">their website</a>. The neat thing is that you can use the Moot application to provide full forum capability, or to provide a simple comment system for blog posts, photos, articles, or whatever you choose.</div>
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If you have found this blog post, you probably already know all about Moot. You have likely created a forum to test and now you are interested in embedding the product into your Google Blogger site. This task is actually very easy to accomplish, and I believe the following guides will prove helpful in getting the basic functionality working on your own Blogger site.</div>
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<b>To install Moot as a forum.</b></div>
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1) Create a Moot forum at <a href="http://moot.it/">Moot.it</a></div>
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2) Configure your blog to properly host the Moot forum application. Log-on to your Google Blogger account and navigate to the blog's admin menu; select "Template" and then select "Edit HTML"</div>
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After the <head> tag, enter the following HTML code (i.e. that code shown below in <span style="color: #cc0000;">red</span> characters):</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <!-- 1. Moot style --></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <link href='http://cdn.moot.it/1/moot.css' rel='stylesheet' type='text/css'/></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <!-- 2. jQuery library (v1.7+ required) --></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <script src='http://ajax.googleapis.com/ajax/libs/jquery/1/jquery.min.js'/></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <script src='http://cdn.moot.it/1/moot.min.js'/></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <!-- 4. Moot mobile optimization --></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <meta content='width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0' name='viewport'/></span></div>
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Select "Save Template" and "Close"</div>
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3) Create a new page on your blog to display the forum. From the blog's admin menu; select "Pages," "New Page," and "Blank Page"</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAUAql1U9iE1M3I1JgAKBVwSvlVDcyqaC4PO8Ek5zOJ_ZpAMNF94e374UwykMjdOvhpxsqD9IQ2qYe62MW9ZnyDPuqgWUhsgBnh8M9NmL7koNd9PmLA4M3q97J-TQPOKjiS1jHFnHQrmzK/s1600/Pic2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAUAql1U9iE1M3I1JgAKBVwSvlVDcyqaC4PO8Ek5zOJ_ZpAMNF94e374UwykMjdOvhpxsqD9IQ2qYe62MW9ZnyDPuqgWUhsgBnh8M9NmL7koNd9PmLA4M3q97J-TQPOKjiS1jHFnHQrmzK/s400/Pic2.png" height="291" width="400" /></a></div>
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Enter a descriptive name for the new page (i.e. Forum) and in the page edit dialog, select "HTML"</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJmzp8sJTNiiTlRlwHXejHXVKJc9jJu80vdjQ_ncam4atNXwYJzsmlnsXnAJYeDOFU2LjGdXteZ1WokQC2zYYU2nBKjopVU7IgqI0x5pHVA07E1K3TaVlSG8fbo0cGf8voVH5ZQ7xo554/s1600/Pic3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJmzp8sJTNiiTlRlwHXejHXVKJc9jJu80vdjQ_ncam4atNXwYJzsmlnsXnAJYeDOFU2LjGdXteZ1WokQC2zYYU2nBKjopVU7IgqI0x5pHVA07E1K3TaVlSG8fbo0cGf8voVH5ZQ7xo554/s400/Pic3.png" height="268" width="400" /></a></div>
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Enter the following HTML code to place your Moot forum in this Blogger page.</div>
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<a class="moot" href="http://api.moot.it/[forumname]"></a></div>
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Where [forumname] is the name used when you registered the new forum at Moot.it. Do not include the square brackets.</div>
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Select "Update" and "Close"</div>
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That's it. You have successfully added a Moot forum to your Google Blogger site. For more information, please refer to the <a href="http://moot.it/docs/" target="_blank">Moot documentation</a>.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>To install Moot as a Comments system.</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
1) Create a Moot forum at <a href="http://moot.it/">Moot.it</a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
2) Configure your blog to properly host the Moot forum application (Please note that this is the same first step as used to install Moot as a forum. If you have already done that, you can skip to the next step). Log-on to your Google Blogger account and navigate to the blog's admin menu; select "Template" and then select "Edit HTML"</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2n-7EqnGymu4_DclIgFRZcy53MWerpVq87Y7t_DeN_y8p33Ma-p3tVw6VV4opgt02j1x_v-pJMyanTUAdZsTkb042gakJZ7xvy3Ii2xwgH0ggTkvkhesK7QJ-hD98k1xzKBDQotH8Gx6/s1600/Pic1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2n-7EqnGymu4_DclIgFRZcy53MWerpVq87Y7t_DeN_y8p33Ma-p3tVw6VV4opgt02j1x_v-pJMyanTUAdZsTkb042gakJZ7xvy3Ii2xwgH0ggTkvkhesK7QJ-hD98k1xzKBDQotH8Gx6/s400/Pic1.png" height="261" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
After the <head> tag, enter the following HTML code (i.e. that code shown below in <span style="color: #cc0000;">red</span> characters):</div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
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<head></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <!-- 1. Moot style --></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <link href='http://cdn.moot.it/1/moot.css' rel='stylesheet' type='text/css'/></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <!-- 2. jQuery library (v1.7+ required) --></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <script src='http://ajax.googleapis.com/ajax/libs/jquery/1/jquery.min.js'/></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <!-- 3. Moot application --></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <script src='http://cdn.moot.it/1/moot.min.js'/></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <!-- 4. Moot mobile optimization --></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <meta content='width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0' name='viewport'/></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<meta content='IE=EmulateIE7' http-equiv='X-UA-Compatible'/></div>
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<br />
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Select "Save Template" and "Close"</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
3) Create a comments feature for your content. From the blog's admin menu; select the existing page or post where you would like to add the comments feature. In the page edit dialog, select "HTML"</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJmzp8sJTNiiTlRlwHXejHXVKJc9jJu80vdjQ_ncam4atNXwYJzsmlnsXnAJYeDOFU2LjGdXteZ1WokQC2zYYU2nBKjopVU7IgqI0x5pHVA07E1K3TaVlSG8fbo0cGf8voVH5ZQ7xo554/s1600/Pic3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJmzp8sJTNiiTlRlwHXejHXVKJc9jJu80vdjQ_ncam4atNXwYJzsmlnsXnAJYeDOFU2LjGdXteZ1WokQC2zYYU2nBKjopVU7IgqI0x5pHVA07E1K3TaVlSG8fbo0cGf8voVH5ZQ7xo554/s400/Pic3.png" height="268" width="400" /></a></div>
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Enter the following HTML code where you would like the Moot comments feature to display.</div>
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<a class="moot" href="http://api.moot.it/[forumname]/[pagename]"></a></div>
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Where [forumname] is the name used when you registered the new forum at Moot.it, and [pagename] is a unique name for this comments feature. Each comments feature you add to the Blogger site must have a unique [pagename] to manage the users' comments. Do not include the square brackets.</div>
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Select "Update" and "Close"</div>
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To be most effective as a comment system, you should consider changing your Blogger site settings to hide Blogger hosted comments (Admin Menu, Settings, Posts and Comments, Comment Location - Hide) and (Admin Menu, Layout, Blog Posts - Edit, Comments - uncheck).</div>
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<br /></div>
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That's it. You have successfully added a Moot comments feature to your Google Blogger site. For more information, please refer to the <a href="http://moot.it/docs/" target="_blank">Moot documentation</a>.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>Customizing the Moot application look and feel.</b></div>
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The Moot application automatically inherits the style of your Blogger template. However, if you need to fine-tune the look, you can override the CSS to customize the Moot forum or comments feature as you wish. This may be a more advanced task for some users.</div>
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</div>
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1) Log-on to your Google Blogger account and navigate to the blog's admin menu; select "Template" and then select "Edit HTML"</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2n-7EqnGymu4_DclIgFRZcy53MWerpVq87Y7t_DeN_y8p33Ma-p3tVw6VV4opgt02j1x_v-pJMyanTUAdZsTkb042gakJZ7xvy3Ii2xwgH0ggTkvkhesK7QJ-hD98k1xzKBDQotH8Gx6/s1600/Pic1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2n-7EqnGymu4_DclIgFRZcy53MWerpVq87Y7t_DeN_y8p33Ma-p3tVw6VV4opgt02j1x_v-pJMyanTUAdZsTkb042gakJZ7xvy3Ii2xwgH0ggTkvkhesK7QJ-hD98k1xzKBDQotH8Gx6/s400/Pic1.png" height="261" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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After the lines of HTML you added to configure your blog for Moot, enter the following HTML code (i.e. that code shown below in <span style="color: #cc0000;">red</span> characters):</div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
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<head></div>
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<br /></div>
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<!-- 1. Moot style --></div>
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<link href='http://cdn.moot.it/1/moot.css' rel='stylesheet' type='text/css'/></div>
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<br /></div>
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<!-- 2. jQuery library (v1.7+ required) --></div>
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<script src='http://ajax.googleapis.com/ajax/libs/jquery/1/jquery.min.js'/></div>
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<br /></div>
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<!-- 3. Moot application --></div>
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<script src='http://cdn.moot.it/1.0/moot.min.js'/></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<!-- 4. Moot mobile optimization --></div>
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<meta content='width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0' name='viewport'/></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <!-- 5. Moot Custom CSS --></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> <style></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> .moot {</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> font-size: 14px;</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> font-color: #666666;</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> }</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"> </style></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<meta content='IE=EmulateIE7' http-equiv='X-UA-Compatible'/></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Select "Save Template" and "Close"</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In the example above, the CSS customization sets the Moot font size to 14 pixels tall, and the font color to dark gray (#666666). You would enter your own custom CSS here. The <a href="http://cdn.moot.it/1/moot.css" target="_blank">Moot CSS reference</a> provides the information used for their application. Use caution changing these values and keep good document on the changes you made. Some edits can render your Blogger site unusable.</div>
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I hope that this brief tutorial helps you enjoy the Moot application on your own Google Blogger site.</div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<br />Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-56457271915751169312012-12-04T22:59:00.001-05:002012-12-04T22:59:58.535-05:00Wirelessly Extend Your Verizon FiOS Wi-Fi Network<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0TY2cyFLdCOdzxyfpBC0-1lq9v58J_agcAnksrCKiD8cAFkKsD2w3s7cdSaVwrrF0B9-EwyRp0YFE-hxzyOKQzFH2usKlAYG_XQSPjJicioDvq7pYCiE-TrIxkbfnU8Y_BxDg60jOBKWS/s1600/actiontec_m1424wr.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0TY2cyFLdCOdzxyfpBC0-1lq9v58J_agcAnksrCKiD8cAFkKsD2w3s7cdSaVwrrF0B9-EwyRp0YFE-hxzyOKQzFH2usKlAYG_XQSPjJicioDvq7pYCiE-TrIxkbfnU8Y_BxDg60jOBKWS/s320/actiontec_m1424wr.jpeg" width="109" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Verizon FiOS Internet service is really quite spectacular. With their Quantum service, I regularly experience direct-connected speeds of 60 Mbps download and 30 Mbps upload. However, the Actiontec MI424WR router is a weak link in their product. The wi-fi radio in this device is the source of frustration for many Verizon customers... me included.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Many FiOS users search for a way to extend the wi-fi capabilities of the Actiontec router. A simple <a href="http://www.google.com/#hl=en&tbo=d&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=extend+actiontec+wireless+network&oq=extend+actiontec+network&gs_l=hp.1.0.0i8i30.1147.1147.0.5279.1.1.0.0.0.0.123.123.0j1.1.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.2.DiF5dTnj7Fo&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&fp=83f79a91cf105258&bpcl=39468505&biw=1230&bih=947" target="_blank">Google search</a> will reveal several options: tin foil reflectors, high-gain antennas, power line carrier sets, wi-fi repeater devices, and ethernet-connected remote access points. Some of these solutions work, some maybe not so much. None of them provided the answer that I was looking for.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I needed to solve three problems: (1) extend the range of my existing wireless network (and not by creating a new, separate wi-fi network); (2) provide ethernet network connections at a remote location in my home (for ethernet-connected computers, printers and console games); and (3) provide these two functions wirelessly (i.e. I did not want to install ethernet cable throughout the building for a new access point). The ideal solution would be a Repeater Bridge.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
A Repeater Bridge connects two local area network segments with a wireless link. The two segments are in the same network, and to all of the computers on the network it looks like two ethernet switches connected by a cable. Since the computers are on the same network, broadcasts reach all machines. This is what I needed.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sounds like an impossible task, right? Wrong. Fortunately, there is a rather simple and economic solution that is proven. It's not my idea, or my work, so no credit claimed here. I'm just providing you with the steps that I took, and a convenient source for all of the links to the necessary resources.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUhZbw2dNMfpfg11xaXSqMs07VvMVYYAryy4BHTxq5RPHAwCuMb3ySajDm12ejoq0QL27CbrWYN2w2_n_kUOZrnk5Av1p9ZE_1FAna-O0DnhD9Mses22_eG-mZcqjsONwLWBDO1c22tcy3/s1600/SetupWifiEnc.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUhZbw2dNMfpfg11xaXSqMs07VvMVYYAryy4BHTxq5RPHAwCuMb3ySajDm12ejoq0QL27CbrWYN2w2_n_kUOZrnk5Av1p9ZE_1FAna-O0DnhD9Mses22_eG-mZcqjsONwLWBDO1c22tcy3/s320/SetupWifiEnc.png" width="320" /></a>The solution is based upon the outstanding work of the very talented employees and dedicated user community at <a href="http://www.dd-wrt.com/" target="_blank">DD-WRT</a>. The DD-WRT product is a Linux-based alternative OpenSource firmware designed for use with a variety of wi-fi routers. The idea is to load this custom firmware on the router which allows it to be more than simply an access point; to unleash the powerful device's enhanced capabilities... like the Repeater Bridge function we desired.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The DD-WRT community is probably best known for their work on enhancing the capabilities of the inexpensive Linksys WRT54G wireless router. While the WRT54G device is a real workhorse, it does not support <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11" target="_blank">IEEE 802.11n</a> networks like that used by the Actiontec MI424WR. Therefore, I would need to start with another device.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRNeRbcl92CBeWToJN7HhsLOZuUQmPG-KVC-j0QPi5_4lp51T-ILNomSa1lD2EtGGwpe0fC7_yeOTthYX4IdjofNVx0Sk9b-TGKRNfoP4O4AisZeTYcSJwy1Z4kwBsjBPea00rsF4Pths/s1600/Linksys_E2500_e.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRNeRbcl92CBeWToJN7HhsLOZuUQmPG-KVC-j0QPi5_4lp51T-ILNomSa1lD2EtGGwpe0fC7_yeOTthYX4IdjofNVx0Sk9b-TGKRNfoP4O4AisZeTYcSJwy1Z4kwBsjBPea00rsF4Pths/s320/Linksys_E2500_e.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The <a href="http://homestore.cisco.com/en-us/Routers/Linksys-E2500-Advanced-DualBandN-Router_stcVVproductId129966526VVcatId551966VVviewprod.htm" target="_blank">Linksys (Cisco) E2500 / N600</a> router is a dual-band N (2.4 and 5 GHz) device that supports transfer rates to 300 Mbps. More than sufficient for my needs. It is moderately priced, and can be found at most online and big-box retailers. It may sound funny to purchase a brand new router and essentially "hack" it. However, the hardware itself is really quite powerful, and we are just taking the steps necessary to leverage the capabilities of the DD-WRT firmware.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
After installing the firmware and configuring the router as instructed, we are pleased to report that our DD-WRT powered Repeater Bridge has been working flawlessly on our network, having resolved many of our problems with the Actiontec router. If you are an advanced novice and are able to follow instructions, you can get the same results.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The actual steps we took are listed here with brief comments. Please carefully read the information at each of the provided links. While we are confident that these instructions work, <i>we cannot be held responsible for any damage that may occur to your router, or the devices connected to your network</i>. We are also not able to provide support for the DD-WRT firmware or instructions. Comments requesting such support will be deleted.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>(1) Chose a router that you believe may meet your needs.</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We chose the Linksys E2500 router since it supported 802.11n and had the dual-band and throughput capabilities that we desired.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>(2) Navigate to the <a href="http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database" target="_blank">DD-WRT router database</a>, and search for your chosen router to make certain that there is a current, up to-date firmware that supports the device.</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<u>Some routers are not supported by DD-WRT. Check before you buy!</u></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>(3) Acquire the router.</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>(4) Set-up and confirm that the router works as it was originally designed and that it performs the standard access point function.</b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
For a brand-new router, there may be an initialization process that requires vendor-supplied software.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>(5) Navigate to the <a href="http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page" target="_blank">DD-WRT wiki</a>, and search for your chosen router. Carefully follow the instructions to replace the device's firmware.</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The DD-WRT wiki will always have the most recent version of the firmware for your device. Do not trust other sources as installing the wrong version of the firmware may render your router useless.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I cannot stress enough to <i>carefully follow all of the instructions</i>. Do not skip a step regardless of how meaningless you may believe that it is.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>(6) Navigate to the DD-WRT instructions on how to configure a <a href="http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Repeater_Bridge" target="_blank">Repeater Bridge</a>. Carefully follow the instructions to configure the device for this specialized function.</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I cannot stress enough to <i>carefully follow all of the instructions</i>. Do not skip a step regardless of how meaningless you may believe that it is.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>(7) Enjoy the enhanced capabilities of your router, including the wireless extension of your Verizon FiOS Actiontec MI424WR router!</b></div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-51837501420930468362012-09-22T20:50:00.000-04:002012-09-22T20:50:40.595-04:00Vinyl Tilt Window Won't Stay Open? Fix It Yourself!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNaW1HBtPDPhU4imduGczfSOFULv2D-S_87chHBTc30vUZytAiTVbeNguraVQLRP83bGXOgF2k7K3W8J0UamGBC1_MX5YxP64_YHHoxjaa0kDS3wE4dbsFUa0A_tBT4ctvoCBh92qgkCHJ/s1600/IMG_0528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNaW1HBtPDPhU4imduGczfSOFULv2D-S_87chHBTc30vUZytAiTVbeNguraVQLRP83bGXOgF2k7K3W8J0UamGBC1_MX5YxP64_YHHoxjaa0kDS3wE4dbsFUa0A_tBT4ctvoCBh92qgkCHJ/s200/IMG_0528.jpg" width="190" /></a></div>
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The backyard of our property has a beautiful southern exposure with a wonderful view of an extended wooded lot and an uncluttered utility right-of-way beyond. The house has many large windows that allow us to enjoy this view. When the structure was built in 1999, the contractor chose to use a combination of inexpensive vinyl, single and double hung, tilt windows. I use the term inexpensive because the windows are not necessarily cheap or defective; they were just not made to last a lifetime.</div>
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Over the last couple of years, a few of the windows have experienced catastrophic failures of the balance mechanism. The balance mechanism allows the heavy, double-pane window to lift easily and to stay open at the desired height. Vintage windows used a combination of ropes, pulleys, and cast iron weights to provide this balance. Modern window designs rely on springs that are attached to the movable window frame. The failure of the balance mechanism in my house left the windows difficult to lift and in some cases, unable to stay open.</div>
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When faced with this issue, many homeowners believe they have no option and resort to replacing their windows. The fact is, just because they are broken doesn't mean they are not repairable. Since I am a bit frugal and not in a financial situation that would allow wholesale replacement of all the windows in our house, I decided to perform a relatively easy do-it-yourself repair.</div>
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I discovered that a common lifting mechanism failure for tilt windows was either the separation of the spring-loaded spiral balance from the pivot shoe or a broken pivot bar. Let me explain. One end of the balance mechanism is attached to the top of the window, inside of the casing. A spiral rod extends out of the balance spring tube to connect to the pivot shoe. The pivot shoe slides up and down the tracks that are located in the side jambs. The pivot shoes connect to the window via two bars that extend from the side of the moving window sash into a matching socket in the pivot shoe. This simple bar and socket connection at the two sides is what allows the window to tilt inward for easy cleaning.</div>
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When working properly, the spring of the balance is sufficiently loaded to allow the window to operate with ease. Should the balance mechanism's spiral rod come disconnected from the pivot shoe, or the pivot bar break, the spring will no longer be able to assit with the operation of the window.</div>
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Fortunately, replacement pivot shoes and pivot bars are much, much less expensive than replacing an entire window; and most novice do-it-yourself types should be able to tackle the job with standard hand tools and just a little time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqXdvyqlde2jP5i8AE4tU57OR3tdHYLGcghmrAEd_90Rb8yO33kybtJKnyAggI0T-VWx1g8_1ncnu2-CYjIY8sHNFORVRwVClaPf2rf82LTFc-8jvg9rrwAr2HlqcsIJQlb6efZZWVIluO/s1600/Swisco.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqXdvyqlde2jP5i8AE4tU57OR3tdHYLGcghmrAEd_90Rb8yO33kybtJKnyAggI0T-VWx1g8_1ncnu2-CYjIY8sHNFORVRwVClaPf2rf82LTFc-8jvg9rrwAr2HlqcsIJQlb6efZZWVIluO/s200/Swisco.jpeg" width="161" /></a>The first step is to identify the correct type and size of pivot shoe or pivot bar that is required to make the repair. Release the tilt mechanism of the broken window and carefully allow it to tilt inwards until the window is roughly perpendicular to the wall. Slide one side of the window up (or down) until the pivot bars are able to clear the pivot shoes and the window can be removed. Now you can get a clear view of what the broken components look like. </div>
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There are many sources for window components, with several retail options available online. I have found <a href="http://www.swisco.com/" target="_blank">SWISCO</a> to have an excellent selection, reasonable prices, and good customer service. Once you know what the broken components looks like, and can obtain accurate measurements to make certain the replacement parts will fit and operate correctly, you can browse the selection of parts available from your store of choice. For example, <a href="http://www.swisco.com/Pivot-Shoe-1_2-inch-Thick/pd/Tilt-Window-Replacement-Pivot-Lock-Shoes/15-046" target="_blank">here are the pivot shoes</a> that I needed for my windows.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgG77_cvYylEoYynWyDOvZVcPrEsKuRlFMYh_wIlMjhQCCSt4wtN0mXUyZovbDAgBMiYwDMhppWcECDlSQU7NkPtdPdN537pYJkm4CZX1tcdBNm4BOxp4dqy8eICwiEtFDY4RheXyW9A-v/s1600/Tool.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgG77_cvYylEoYynWyDOvZVcPrEsKuRlFMYh_wIlMjhQCCSt4wtN0mXUyZovbDAgBMiYwDMhppWcECDlSQU7NkPtdPdN537pYJkm4CZX1tcdBNm4BOxp4dqy8eICwiEtFDY4RheXyW9A-v/s200/Tool.jpeg" width="200" /></a>In order to safely grip the spiral rod and twist it to "charge" the spring, you need a special tool. The tools are not expensive, so don't risk hurting yourself or breaking the window by trying to use a shortcut method. <a href="http://www.swisco.com/Charging-Tool-for-Tilt-Windows/pd/Do-It-Yourself-Tools/75-006" target="_blank">Here is a spiral balance charging tool</a> for tilt windows as sold by SWISCO. It's a no-frills model, but if you are only repairing a couple of windows this is all that you need.</div>
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When you have the replacement parts on-hand, you are ready to replace the broken pivot shoe or pivot rod. Begin by removing the window as previously described. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXFsiaCwE6U2prTK7N9Q_D1TJB2Uwll0YKfI5KADVSRPPzm_rQqHQSWgtoDLtMPKCFFGcxmIgLRf61y6DdzJzdEZxhn8sPxZqXy6exkJAZqPa8wkf65VqPkQUaCo7F90JVRn9R7Cp8Rd1K/s1600/Rod.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXFsiaCwE6U2prTK7N9Q_D1TJB2Uwll0YKfI5KADVSRPPzm_rQqHQSWgtoDLtMPKCFFGcxmIgLRf61y6DdzJzdEZxhn8sPxZqXy6exkJAZqPa8wkf65VqPkQUaCo7F90JVRn9R7Cp8Rd1K/s200/Rod.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div>
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If you are replacing a broken pivot rod, the repair is very straight forward. With the removed window being held securely, simply remove the hardware that fastens the broken pivot rod to the frame and install the new one. Presto! The window is ready to be put back into place.</div>
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If you must replace a broken pivot shoe, the process is a bit more involved. With the window removed and set aside in a safe place, slide the broken pivot shoe to the bottom of the track. Use a utility knife (with a new, <u>sharp</u> blade) to cut away a small part of the track lip that holds the pivot shoe inside of the track. Be careful to only remove as little of the track material as needed. This will help to make certain that the new pivot shoe will not slip out of place or become jammed, preventing the window from operating correctly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuReAcHgzRyDlIeFBwY_gD4-5R1TRrR0Jf1dCp5ttgGVb4O9_7ar_3NAKn6kYhyphenhyphenrr5tV3tnfk6W6muBUau1jmSg8rxJEA7_n3FzQjaZIKUhcWLhlNWj8BXbH6t0ZS-QRPmgjRuiF2yAdbD/s1600/IMG_0518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuReAcHgzRyDlIeFBwY_gD4-5R1TRrR0Jf1dCp5ttgGVb4O9_7ar_3NAKn6kYhyphenhyphenrr5tV3tnfk6W6muBUau1jmSg8rxJEA7_n3FzQjaZIKUhcWLhlNWj8BXbH6t0ZS-QRPmgjRuiF2yAdbD/s200/IMG_0518.jpg" width="154" /></a></div>
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Using a pair of pliers, firmly grip the broken pivot shoe and remove it from the track. It may break into pieces (if it is not already broken; the reason you are replacing it). Place the new pivot shoe in-place, oriented in the correct position. The new pivot shoe may require some moderate force to "snap" into place within the track. A light hammer tap should not be a problem, just be careful not to damage the new component or the window jamb. If the new, replacement pivot shoe is sized correctly, it should slide freely along the track. A little furniture cleaner / wax (e.g. Pledge Furniture Polish) may help make the movement more smooth without creating a oily mess.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipinYmau374m-b8LTVd0Xks7ejmyplVtVZYdtIG_1AaATv00ihADC-2IKsPkpq3VvYfIYx1kNEUuHtvmcdFS-u2IPAe3Bx24n66BhS-o3Bo3Dn0HO2h1j6Xb-O-FmAnpfo-SK_NvsDYd55/s1600/IMG_0521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipinYmau374m-b8LTVd0Xks7ejmyplVtVZYdtIG_1AaATv00ihADC-2IKsPkpq3VvYfIYx1kNEUuHtvmcdFS-u2IPAe3Bx24n66BhS-o3Bo3Dn0HO2h1j6Xb-O-FmAnpfo-SK_NvsDYd55/s200/IMG_0521.jpg" width="103" /></a>The spring of the spiral balance must be charged before it is connected to the new pivot shoe. Using the spiral balance charging tool, turn the spiral rod clock-wise about eight to ten times. With the tool still connected, pull the spiral rod down and slip the end of the rod into its corresponding slot on the top of the pivot shoe. Once the pivot shoe(s) have been replaced, carefully hold the window to place the pivot rods back into the pivot shoes, align the two shoes so that they are even in height, and snap the tilted window back into place. If the pivot shoes have been installed correctly, and the spring balance sufficiently charged, the window should move easily up and down, and stay in position when released. If the window will not remain open, you may need to remove the window and use the spiral balance charging tool to give the spiral rod a few more turns to increase the spring charge.</div>
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While these instructions may seem lengthy, the process to replace both pivot shoes on one window should take less than 30 minutes, including prep and clean-up.</div>
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I have used this process to repair several windows in our house. It's easy... Can be completed in short order... And it's a much less expensive alternative to complete window replacement.</div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-22536333432106791432012-02-21T21:09:00.000-05:002012-02-21T21:09:51.900-05:00Ford Escape Hybrid - Brake Master Cylinder / HCU Failure and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCgl86H1o20HZMuaUF9Mb6fs9UebO_wmcSTmKx8TlhtD8uQS5uv-Qwo4Nflkmx49Chk5k_eKuQrLzlsEes6Kv6yb4wC_3xS5Ja3HLYd0ylgIxwvVwTy4UuKKwkaBC56j9okq1SzjAL60V/s1600/2005FordEscapeHybrid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCgl86H1o20HZMuaUF9Mb6fs9UebO_wmcSTmKx8TlhtD8uQS5uv-Qwo4Nflkmx49Chk5k_eKuQrLzlsEes6Kv6yb4wC_3xS5Ja3HLYd0ylgIxwvVwTy4UuKKwkaBC56j9okq1SzjAL60V/s320/2005FordEscapeHybrid.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
In previous blog posts (<a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2010/01/my-ford-escape-hybrid-brake-repair.html">Here</a> and <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2010/07/ford-hybrid-brake-failure-revisited.html">Here</a>), we discussed the brake failure experience with our 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid ("FEH"). In our earlier posts, we provided the details regarding the failure of the regenerative braking system due to a defective master cylinder and hydraulic control unit ("HCU"). We continue to hear from many other Ford Escape and Mercury Mariner Hybrid owners who have experienced the same problem. Most all of them described the harrowing experience of having the electro-hydraulic brakes resort to failsafe mode; some resulting in accidents or near-misses.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">We continue to encourage anyone else who has had this problem to file a complaint with the Office of Defects Investigation ("ODI") at the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration ("NHTSA"). If you have not already done so, you can file a safety complaint at this web site...</span><a bitly="BITLY_PROCESSED" href="http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/" muse_scanned="true" style="background-color: white; color: #888888; text-decoration: none;">http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/</a><span style="background-color: white;"> or by calling the NHTSA Safety Hotline, Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. at (888) 327-4236, TTY: (800) 424-9153.</span></div>
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Many new complaints have been filed since we last wrote about this problem. I have reproduced some of those below to help give you an idea of how similar the problems are amongst those who have experienced this brake failure.</div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10448561</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: THE BRAKES FAILED WHILE ATTEMPTING TO STOP AT A STOP SIGN. THE CAR WENT THROUGH THE STOP SIGN. A FEW MINUTES LATER WHILE DRIVING, THE ABS AND SERVICE BRAKES LIGHT CAME ON. I DROVE THE VEHICLE DIRECTLY TO THE DEALER. THEY WERE NOT ABLE TO LOOK AT IT UNTIL TWO DAYS LATER. I WAS TOLD THE BRAKE HOSES NEEDED REPLACING. I REPLACED THEM. THE BRAKES SEEMED TO BE WORKING. A FEW DAYS LATER, I GOT THE SERVICE BRAKES WARNING, AS WELL AS THE SERVICE 4X4 WARNING IN THE INFO SCREEN. THE BRAKES SEEMED TO BE WORKING. THIS TIME THEY REPLACED THE WHEEL SENSOR AT THE DEALER. ABOUT A WEEK LATER, I NOTICED THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS HARD WHEN INITIALLY PRESSED AND SOFTENED WHEN THE CAR WAS TURNED ON. I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD ABOUT 35 MPH WHEN THE SERVICE BREAKS AND ABS WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON AND THE BRAKES ONLY WORKED IF I PRESSED REALLY HARD TO THE FLOOR AND THEN IT WAS JERKY. I DROVE A SHORT DISTANCE TO RETURN FROM WHERE I STARTED AND TURNED OFF THECAR. WHEN I TURNED IT ON AGAIN A FEW MINUTES LATER, THE WARNING LIGHTS WERE OFF AND I HAD BRAKING POWER AGAIN. I DROVE A FEW MILES TO THE DEALER AND WHEN I PULLED INTO THE PARKING LOT TO PARK, THE BRAKES FAILED AGAIN AND WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON. THIS WAS A SUNDAY. THEY LOOKED AT THE VEHICLE ON MONDAY AND NOTICED THE HARD BRAKE PEDAL, BUT HE LIGHTS WERE NOT ON. THEY LOOKED AT THE COMPUTER SERVICE CODES AND INFORMED ME I NEEDED TO REPLACE THE HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT/ABS MODULE AND POSSIBLE THE MASTER CYLINDER AT A PRICE TAG OF $4300 - $5500+. THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE INTERMITTENT, BUT THE VEHICLE IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE. I KNOW I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH A 2005 HYBRID THAT HAS EXPERIENCED THIS MAJOR SAFETY PROBLEM.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 01/21/2012</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 2/20/2012 </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10436375</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER SEVERAL TIMES WHERE THE BRAKE PADS, ROTORS AND SENSORS WERE REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE WAS NOT CORRECTED. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TAKEN TO A LOCAL MECHANIC WHERE THE CONTACT WAS ADVISED THAT THE MANUFACTURER HAD PROVIDED A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN FOR THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 140,000.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 12/18/2007</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 11/18/2011 </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10424395</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: ABS LIGHT AND BRAKE LIGHT WENT ON HEARD A BEEP AND HAD NO BRAKES WHAT SO EVER . I EVENTUALLY STOPPED BY ENTERING THE CAR IN TO NEUTRAL AND HITTING THE EMERGENCY BRAKE. TURNED THE CAR OFF AND WHEN I TURNED ON AGAIN IT WENT AWAY, MY MECHANIC SAYS ITS GOING TO COST $1000 MASTER CYLINDER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THANKS FORD FOR YOUR ASUPPORT WITH THIS OBVIOUS ISSUE YOU NEED TO ADDRESS. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 09/08/2011</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 9/8/2011 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10410217</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK:CONTROL UNIT/MODULE</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON THE DASHBOARD. WHEN THE BRAKE WAS IT WENT TO THE FLOOR AND THE CONTACT COULD HEAR A GRINDING NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE ANTI BRAKING SYSTEM COMPUTER FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE, BUT OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 67,137. UPDATED 08/31/11 *BF THE CONSUMER STATED HE HAD TO PUT THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL AND USE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP THE VEHICLE. UPDATED 11/23/11</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 04/12/2011</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 7/1/2011 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10402091</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: WE HAVE OWNED SEVERAL GOOD FORD VEHICLES IN THE PAST, UP UNTIL NOW. THE SUBJECT: 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID AND PROBLEMS WITH THE ABS. WE NOW UNDERSTAND THIS IS A COMMON RECURRING PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE. THE MASTER BRAKE CYLINDER IS DEFECTIVE IN WHAT APPEARS TO BE CONSISTENT WITH ALL OF THE FORDS HYBRID ESCORT LINE...DUE TO A DESIGN FLAW THAT FORD REFUSES TO RECOGNIZE. THE COST OF REPAIRS CAN RANGE FROM $1500-4000 AND AS A CONSUMERS RIGHTS ADVOCATE I WONT HESITATE TO BLOW THE WHISTLE ON THIS ONE...MY DAUGHTER DRIVES THIS CAR, AND SHE ALMOST HAD WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN A SERIOUS IF NOT A FATAL ACCIDENT...;NO RESPONSE FROM THE BRAKING SYSTEM AND IT IS NOW IN THE SHOP.. AND WE CANT AFFORD FOR HER NOT TO CONTINUE TO GO TO COLLEGE, AND WE CANT AFFORD TO BUY HER A NEW CAR. WHEN IT COMES TO SAFETY, FORD SHOULD BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE...THE ONLY RESPONSE EVER FROM THEM TO ANYONE ELSE WHO HAS HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM, HAS BEEN A WEAK APOLOGY. WHAT DOES IT TAKE FOR YOUR ORGANIZATION TO INITIATE A RECALL OR AT LEAST A RESPONSIBLE REPLY FROM FORD. I CANT EVEN FEEL GOOD ABOUT SELLING THIS CAR TO ANYONE ELSE UNTIL THIS DEFECT IS RESOLVED. AT LEAST TOYOTA DID WHAT THEY WERE SUPPOSE TO WHEN THEY HAD THE "STUCK" ACCELERATION ISSUE...BUT FORD - AN AMERICAN (?) COMPANY THAT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME...WITH SHABBINESS LIKE THIS ITS NO WONDER OUR TECHNOLOGIES BEING CONSTANTLY "SOLD (OUT)" ) AND EXPORTED OVERSEAS. ON BEHALF OF ALL AMERICANS WHO PREFER TO PURCHASE USA MADE PRODUCTS AND EXPECT THE QUALITY WE DESERVE, I EXPECT A RESPONSE FROM YOU THAT ADDRESSES THIS HORRENDOUS PROBLEM THAT CAN CAUSE DEATH ON THE HIGHWAYS, IF NOT ALREADY...IT SURELY WILL IN TIME. HOW EFFECTIVE AND INFLUENTIAL IS YOUR ORGANIZATION, OR IS IT ANOTHER FACADE THAT HAS BEEN DESIGNED TO MAKE US THINK OUR SAFETY RIGHTS ARE PROTECTED FROM THE FLAWS OF BIG BUSINESS WHEN THEY REALLY A? FORTUNATELY, I KNOW SEVERAL CONGRESSMEN WHO WILL NOT LIKE TO RECEIVE A COPY OF THIS MESSAGE BUT ULTIMATELY WILL. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 05/16/2011</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 5/19/2011 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10395883</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, ELECTRIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: STARTED CAR AND RED BRAKE LIGHT AND YELLOW ABS LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON. MESSAGE TO SEEK BRAKE SERVICE ASAP. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 04/13/2011</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 4/14/2011 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10394379</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID 127,000 "I-95" MILES (IT STILL AVERAGES 34.3 MPG) GREAT, RELIABLE, LOW REPAIR COST VEHICLE, UNTIL RECENTLY: BRAKE WARNING LIGHT AND "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" WARNING APPEARS ON DASH INTERMITTENTLY. CAVALIER FORD IN CHESAPEAKE, VA QUOTED A REPAIR COST OF $3900.00 TO REPLACE THE ABS MODULE AND HCU MODULE ($3200.00 PARTS, $700.00 LABOR). AFTER CALLING AROUND THE NORFOLK, VA AREA, APPARENTLY THE HCU MODULE IS ONLY AVAILABLE THROUGH FORD (WHAT A SURPRISE), AND NO OTHER REPAIR SHOP WILL "TOUCH" OUR 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID TO REPLACE THE ABS MODULE. WOW, THATS GREAT TO HEAR...THAT MEANS THAT IM BASICALLY A PRISONER TO FORD???? *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 03/27/2011</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 4/6/2011 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10393646</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD ESCAPE HEV. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE ABS AND BRAKE WARNING LIGHTS SUDDENLY ILLUMINATED. HE CONTINUED TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE BUT WHEN HE ATTEMPTED TO APPLY PRESSURE TO THE BRAKES, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THEY PERFORMED A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WHICH CONCLUDED THAT THE HCU ASSEMBLY WAS FAULTY AND PERFORMED THE NECESSARY REPAIRS. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 100,000.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 03/28/2011</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 3/29/2011 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10392494</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: SERVICE BRAKE SYS MESSAGE ON 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID ALONG WITH BRAKE WARNING LIGHT. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 03/14/2011</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 3/22/2011 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10377925</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: MASTER CYLINDER ON 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID FAILED - 73940 MILES ON CAR. MOSTLY CITY & HIGHWAY DRIVING - NO RACING OR OTHER KIND OF DRIVING. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 01/17/2011</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 1/19/2011 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10373322</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING, THE ABS AND BRAKE LIGHTS ILLUMINATED AND THE BRAKE PEDAL EXTENDED TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE CONTACT HAD TO USE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP THE VEHICLE. THE ELECTRONIC BRAKES FAILED TWICE AND THE VEHICLE LOST CONTROL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHO RECALIBRATED THE HYBRID ELECTRONIC BRAKES BUT THE FAILURE OCCURRED AGAIN TWO WEEKS LATER. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER WHO STATED THAT THE MASTER CYLINDER AND THE HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 60,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 60,500.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 11/29/2010</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 12/29/2010 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10373116</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: THE ISSUE I AM HAVING IS THE SAME AS DESCRIBED IN COMPLAINT #10318942. INTERMITTENTLY ON DRY PAVEMENT DURING NORMAL BRAKING, THE ABS WILL ENGAGE (WITH INDICATOR LIGHT FLASHING ON) AND YOU CAN FEEL THE TYPICAL ABS ON/OFF PULSING OF THE BRAKES IN THE BRAKE PEDAL. IT APPEARS THE CAR IS ALSO TAKING LONGER TO COME TO A FULL STOP WHEN THIS OCCURS. I HAVE REPORTED IT MULTIPLE TIMES AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP, BUT THEY ARE UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE. THIS HAPPENS TO ME REGULARLY (A COUPLE TIMES A WEEK).</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 01/01/2008</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 12/28/2010 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10369851</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: TSB 05-8-5 STATES: ABS AND BRAKE WARNING LAMP ON WITH DTC C1526 - DTC C1524 MAY ALSO BE PRESENT VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO 2/11/2005. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 12/09/2010</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 12/10/2010 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10352205</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: 2005 ESCAPE HYBRID BRAKE FAILURE. I TRIED TO STOP AND BRAKES ONLY WENT HALF WAY DOWN. I RELEASED AND PUSHED AGAIN, HAD TO USE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP OTHERWISE I WOULD HAVE GONE THROUGH A STORE FRONT WINDOW. TOOK TO FORD DEALER AND FOUND OUT IT WAS THE MASTER CYLINDER/SOLENOID. PER FORDS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 0585 ISSUED 8/5/05, THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE CORRECTED BY INSTALLING A REVISED MASTER CYLINDER. THIS COULD HAVE KILLED ME AND THE PEOPLE INSIDE THE BUSINESS. IF THIS IS A KNOWN, VERY DANGEROUS PROBLEM, THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 08/24/2010</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 8/26/2010 </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10350198</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID - THE CAR WOULD BEGIN TO SKID AND SLIDE WHEN APPROACHING A STOP REGARDLESS OF THE VEHICLE SPEED OR ROAD CONDITIONS. THE ABS WOULD KICK IN AND THE INDICATOR WOULD COME ON TELLING THE DRIVER THAT THE CAR WAS SLIDING. THIS IS A DANGEROUS CONDITION AS THE CAR WOULD NOT STOP WHEN THE BRAKES ARE PRESSED. AFTER INVESTIGATING ONLINE, I DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL OF HYBRID VEHICLE. MANY OTHER DRIVERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME THING. THE SUGGESTION WAS THAT THE TONE RINGS WERE CRACKED OR BROKEN. MY REPAIR SHOP DISCOVERED THAT BOTH OF MINE WERE BROKEN AND ONE AXLE NEEDED REPLACED. INTERESTINGLY, WHEN THE MECHANICS TOOK THE CAR ON A TEST DRIVE TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM, THE CAR WOULD REV BEYOND 4 RPMS, THEN THE ENGINE QUIT AND THE DASHBOARD READOUT STATED TO PULL OVER AND STOP THE CAR IMMEDIATELY. THE GAS ENGINE QUIT AND THE CAR WOULD NOT GO OVER 20 MPH. AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF AND WAITING A FEW SECONDS, THE CAR WAS RESTARTED AND THE COMPUTER/CAR RESET ITSELF AND WOULD RUN AGAIN. THE SAME THING HAPPENED ON AN OPEN HIGHWAY GOING 60 MPH. THE INDICATOR LIGHTS WENT OFF AND THE WARNINGS TO PULL OVER AND STOP THE CAR IMMEDIATELY DISPLAYED. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE BY FORD AS THEY HAVE ISSUED DTC C1526. THIS PARTICULAR BLOG (HTTP://BLOG.YAGELSKI.COM/2010/01/MY-FORD-ESCAPE-HYBRID-BRAKE-REPAIR.HTML) EXPLAINS THE PROBLEM AS WELL AS THOSE OF MANY OTHERS WHO ARE ALSO EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE, WITH GREATER DETAIL AND ACCURACY THAN I CAN. PLEASE DO WHATEVER YOU CAN TO FORCE FORD TO ISSUE A RECALL ON THIS INCREDIBLE IMPORTANT AND EXPENSIVE SAFETY MATTER. THANK YOU. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 07/15/2010</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 8/17/2010 </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"><b>CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10347613</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Details: 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID - BRAKE FAILURE. CAR HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN HARSHLY OR IN HARSH CONDITIONS. ON JULY 31ST, APPLIED BRAKES AT STOPLIGHT, ABS LIGHT CAME ON AND BRAKES FAILED. DEALER UNSURE HOW TO FIX. *TR</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Occurrences: 1</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Injuries: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Fail Date: 07/31/2010</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Deaths: 0</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Date added to database: 8/6/2010 </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px; text-align: justify;">It would appear as though these cases are related to the problem as described in Ford's Technical Service Bulletin TSB 0585 (issued August 5, 2005), which states:</span><br />
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ABS AND BRAKE WARNING LAMP ON WITH DTC C1526 - DTC C1524 MAY ALSO BE PRESENT VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO 2/11/2005</div>
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ISSUE: Some 2005 Escape Hybrid vehicles built prior to 2/11/2005, may exhibit the yellow ABS and the red brake warning lamps illuminating after the engine is started, and an increase in brake pedal effort. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) C1526 (Brake Pedal Travel Sensor) will be present in the ABS module, C1524 (Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Calibration Incomplete) may also be present.</div>
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ACTION: Install a revised master cylinder. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 206-06.</div>
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PART NUMBER PART NAME: 5M6Z-2140-B Master Cylinder</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpOtkIRkgBVdXqu0xA3NSE-OY49pCh-yZtXV-IQGOHt0UKUYCtqXSuCaBuMrTaF24dYPDzIO5on-QpOm7SoWnRwu_P3qm6q3vgay617cnX8oD3q9ygDO9ZM-j-uNMW5gNCHCvkTC5qWMb7/s1600/HCU.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpOtkIRkgBVdXqu0xA3NSE-OY49pCh-yZtXV-IQGOHt0UKUYCtqXSuCaBuMrTaF24dYPDzIO5on-QpOm7SoWnRwu_P3qm6q3vgay617cnX8oD3q9ygDO9ZM-j-uNMW5gNCHCvkTC5qWMb7/s320/HCU.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
My experience, and that of others, has been that the resolution also includes the replacement of the defective HCU. At this point, the repair of the poorly designed brake system is the sole responsibility of the vehicle owner. I believe that the only way Ford will address this important safety matter is if the NHTSA will take notice. If you have had a problem with the regenerative braking system on your Ford Escape or Mecury Mariner Hybrid, please consider notifying the NHTSA. By contacting the NHTSA, you may help bring this important safety matter to the attention of other owners of these vehicles.</div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-57155359083795900582012-01-29T19:00:00.001-05:002012-01-29T21:13:21.733-05:00Verizon FiOS - Remote DVR Access Problems<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAsIF5v5xEdRGB4dDzI7ZwfXnPssEfUz6k42MHn_0_DIKTeRteeuQqH72UtL4skhO7DaOTnXanepFfMjx8Ukc-c7uXPjvijOIc74Et-CEOxv40H8ZCSSIsLqIU9Q6WN4UV1qWJzvYbbmAU/s1600/FiOS_iPad.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAsIF5v5xEdRGB4dDzI7ZwfXnPssEfUz6k42MHn_0_DIKTeRteeuQqH72UtL4skhO7DaOTnXanepFfMjx8Ukc-c7uXPjvijOIc74Et-CEOxv40H8ZCSSIsLqIU9Q6WN4UV1qWJzvYbbmAU/s400/FiOS_iPad.png" width="300" /></a></div>
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One of the great things about the Verizon FiOS set-top boxes being IP (Internet Protocol) enabled is that it provides the opportunity for the devices to be securely accessed by remote applications. </div>
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I find it very convenient to use these apps to see what is already recorded, or scheduled to be recorded on the DVR ("Digital Video Recorder"), while in a remote location. It's also nice to be able to schedule new recordings when I'm are not at home with the remote control in-hand. Verizon offers this capability for all FiOS customers via the Verizon website and through applications for mobile devices like the iPhone, iPad, and Android.</div>
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I had been using this feature while traveling on business or out with friends for several months without a problem. Then, for no apparent reason, the app broke.</div>
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[sigh]</div>
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<sigh></sigh></div>
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Suddenly, whenever I would attempt to connect to the FiOS DVR from the Verizon website, iPhone, or iPad, I would receive an error message that stated "<b>Set-Top Box is not responding</b>," "<b>Bad Gateway</b>," or "<b>Network connection timed out</b>." I chalked it up to a gremlin and waited a few days before trying again. Unfortunately, I got the same result.</div>
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Searching online, I found that this seemed to be a rather common problem for Verizon. There were a number of people who complained that the Verizon Support Representatives were not of much help when trying to fix this issue. I can confirm that, as my own chat session started with the rep telling me that the iPhone and iPad were not capable of remotely accessing the FiOS DVR... which would probably be a real surprise to the Verizon folks who designed and coded the iPhone and iPad app.</div>
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After spending way too much time trying to work with the Verizon support representatives, I was able to easily resolve the problem myself. If you are having this same issue with remote DVR control capability, this blog post may be of some help.</div>
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First, two real basic things to check. </div>
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Is the DVR turned on?</div>
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Is the FiOS router turned on?</div>
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Yes. I know that should be obvious, but you may be surprised...</div>
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Based upon the information I've been able to gather, the remote DVR error messages are related to a port mapping issue on the Verizon back-end system. As you may have already determined, rebooting the set-top box or FiOS router does not correct the problem. Apparently, Verizon Tech Support can perform some remote magic to fix this mapping problem, and I believe that magic is simply rebooting the ONT ("Optical Network Terminal"). </div>
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The ONT is the device that provides the interface between the Verizon fiber optic network and the Ethernet / coax system in your house. This device is most often located in some other place away from the FiOS router, usually mounted on the outside of the building. Very close by the ONT, on the inside of the building, is the device's power supply. The unit includes a AC power transformer, AC to DC power supply and conditioner, and a large battery to provide uninterruptible power to the ONT. In order to reboot the ONT on-site, you must first disconnect the AC power (i.e. unplug the power supply from the 120 volt wall outlet) and then disconnect the backup battery.</div>
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<i>Warning! Rebooting the ONT will temporarily disable your connection to the Verizon FiOS system. Be certain that all of your network users are aware that their Internet connection and television signal will be interrupted during this process.</i></div>
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To disconnect the backup battery, open the swinging battery door on the ONT power supply and disconnect the battery plug to the power supply (circled in blue in the photo) by squeezing the connector's tabs and pulling straight out. Wait about ten seconds and then reconnect the backup battery and plug the power supply back into the AC outlet. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2wqB5RNF-ayFbdHWLmoY127a5czRr3HdqG5UaAZe7lwhyphenhyphencLJSiyOOyq2IBkgLfF-cGi8iaVdOFn4xCFXBGbwKTbh3weMv-cSwNgfLyNEdKPDmfConQtRp11qRc6vKFQtap7h1Q-XW387/s1600/FiOS_Power_Supply.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2wqB5RNF-ayFbdHWLmoY127a5czRr3HdqG5UaAZe7lwhyphenhyphencLJSiyOOyq2IBkgLfF-cGi8iaVdOFn4xCFXBGbwKTbh3weMv-cSwNgfLyNEdKPDmfConQtRp11qRc6vKFQtap7h1Q-XW387/s400/FiOS_Power_Supply.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once the power has been restored, the ONT will reboot, resetting the port mapping which should quickly fix the problems that you have been experiencing with remote DVR access. This process is straight-forward, simple, and doesn't require having to deal with Verizon Tech Support!</div>
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[yea!]</div>
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<yea!></yea!></div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-40997505401514122812011-12-01T20:53:00.001-05:002016-05-22T15:30:17.691-04:00Speeding-Up My Mac Pro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRgw4DmPyCspwLOs4NTd3tEGwouo0NJmOyQ_vcnPcyQyVARo7ykB2pH2XNsTgnpvBcdl_POvJ1VJzhlt8XHa7w9lESO_1JUmvGVEhSI23uUxVK1quMU3fF5YKLsf3bTcDgUiLNvYOUbgmG/s1600/MacPro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRgw4DmPyCspwLOs4NTd3tEGwouo0NJmOyQ_vcnPcyQyVARo7ykB2pH2XNsTgnpvBcdl_POvJ1VJzhlt8XHa7w9lESO_1JUmvGVEhSI23uUxVK1quMU3fF5YKLsf3bTcDgUiLNvYOUbgmG/s320/MacPro.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>
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We love our Mac Pro. It's an early model from Apple; designated the MacPro1,1, it was built way back in November 2007. It has served us faithfully and reliably for several years now. However, the two 2.66 GHz Dual-Core Intel Xeon processors are getting a little old (from a technology age standpoint), and it no longer has the pep of a shiny, brand new machine. I considered the possibility of purchasing a new Mac Pro, but just cannot justify the expense at this time. So I decided to look for ways to breathe some new life into the box I already owned.</div>
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Although this blog specifically references the Mac Pro, the same changes could be made to other models of Apple computers that have more than one hard disk. <i>Use the advice provided in this blog at your own risk. We are not responsible for any damage to your computer or loss of data that may occur!</i></div>
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The Mac Pro uses Serial-ATA (SATA) technology operating at a 3 Gigabit link speed to support its data storage devices. I've upgraded the drives a few times and currently have 5 Tb of hard disk storage provided by a combination of four SATA drives. One drive stores the OS X operating system, the second is used for local data storage, the third is used as a backup drive for the local data, and the fourth drive is used for Time Machine. I know there is a lot of backup storage here, but the two methods of archiving copies (plus occasional backup to external hard disks) has saved my rear end more than once.</div>
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As fast as the 3 Gigabit SATA hardware is, spinning magnetic disks remain a performance bottleneck. But all is not lost, because the beauty of the SATA hardware is that it can access multiple drives at the same time. What I discovered is that Apple's default method for locating folders does not take advantage of this capability, and herein lies my zero to low-cost method to improve the performance of your Mac Pro.</div>
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A few months ago I installed a nifty menu bar app named <a href="http://www.agileroute.com/diskled/">DiskLED</a>. This app provides a disk activity monitor that can be customized to display an icon in the menu bar that changes color with disk activity (think traffic light with red, yellow, and green indicators). What I noticed right away was that the disk where OS X resided was constantly being hit, and hit hard. The corresponding icon was almost always colored red, while the disk with my local data was only sparingly used when files were loaded or saved.</div>
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When I viewed the folder structure of the main disk, I noticed that it not only contained the OS X files, but the Users folder as well. While I had already moved much of my data from the Users folder to my local data storage (i.e. the music, movie, and photo libraries), there was still a lot of other data in the Users folder. Specifically, there are a lot of user-specific application settings and support files that are located in hidden files and folders, and they are apparently accessed quite often as you use applications. If you would like to view these hidden files and folders, you must first tell Finder to reveal them. You can do this by opening the Terminal app and entering the following commands:</div>
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defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles TRUE<br />
killall Finder<br />
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To return Finder to its default of keeping these certain files and folders hidden, enter the following commands in Terminal:</div>
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defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles FALSE<br />
killall Finder<br />
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It was my hypothesis that an easy way to better leverage the speed and capability of the fast SATA devices was to separate the operating system and applications from the user data. However, it's not simply a matter of dragging the Users folder to the neighboring hard disk. Here is the process that is required.</div>
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<b>1) Preparation</b></div>
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Start out by creating a backup of your hard disk that contains the operating system, applications, and users folders. It's better to be safe than sorry.</div>
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After you have successfully created the backup, it's a good opportunity to do some spring cleaning. Delete some of those old apps you have never used, delete user accounts that are no longer needed, clear your web browser(s) cache, and empty the Trash.</div>
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My final preparation step is to open the Disk Utility app and select the corresponding hard drive, and Repair File Permissions. This will help to make certain that the Users folder is in good order before it is moved.</div>
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<b>2) Copy the User Folder</b></div>
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To copy all of the files and folders within the Users folder, including the hidden, locked, and system related files, you should use a backup or copy utility such as <a href="http://www.qdea.com/synchronize_pro_x_intro.html">Synchronize! Pro X</a>, <a href="http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html">SuperDuper</a>, or <a href="http://www.bombich.com/">Carbon Copy Cloner</a>. These utilities are currently free to use on a limited basis, but we believe that these types of apps are invaluable for maintaining a scheduled backup of important files and folders. We recommend that you consider supporting the developers and purchase a copy.</div>
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Select as the source the operating system drive and the Users folder only. Then as the destination, the local data drive. Click on copy / clone and wait patiently for the data to be copied between hard drives. An example screen shot from Carbon Copy Cloner is shown below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb78I_pZ6fGBtb1H4rl7RBHWhFaWhWkp4piXZAG9SzbCFGsLXhKeuLw9G9m18rc9NM8jZjugi6xP9nVNQKuUfzPF_P-XSi0yxMEDCLxd_n474TGIUEo9DsUEWIoELabzWsLrH7JCO45Vas/s1600/carboncopycloner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb78I_pZ6fGBtb1H4rl7RBHWhFaWhWkp4piXZAG9SzbCFGsLXhKeuLw9G9m18rc9NM8jZjugi6xP9nVNQKuUfzPF_P-XSi0yxMEDCLxd_n474TGIUEo9DsUEWIoELabzWsLrH7JCO45Vas/s400/carboncopycloner.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>3) Link Each User Account to the New Users Folder Location</b></div>
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This is an important step. You must tell OS X to use the new location for the Users folder, otherwise it will continue to look for the folder in its original location. Open System Preferences, then select Users and Groups. Click the lock to enter your admin password to make changes. Now for each account, Control-Click the account name for access to Advanced Options. Then for the Home Directory entry, click on Choose to navigate to the new location of the Users folder. An example screen shot from the Users and Groups dialog is shown below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXnlBzxB6C2ocwgrxpIg7wtm0hW3n_EfAwDnBGeXy0AoHlaOQMHVqBKkHGfV_IxN4MNa7uSIJKEnThgZzJhO0fn7muBmdr5MtGuowm_Kr2vkAvBYpUa7Ay3FHlT0-HgPCVozLB98FUBrV6/s1600/UsersAndGroups.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXnlBzxB6C2ocwgrxpIg7wtm0hW3n_EfAwDnBGeXy0AoHlaOQMHVqBKkHGfV_IxN4MNa7uSIJKEnThgZzJhO0fn7muBmdr5MtGuowm_Kr2vkAvBYpUa7Ay3FHlT0-HgPCVozLB98FUBrV6/s400/UsersAndGroups.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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You must repeat this linking process for each user account.</div>
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In order to activate the link to the new Users folder location, you must restart your computer. After restarting, you can verify that you have linked to the new location by navigating to the Home Directory, Control-Click on the "Home" icon and select Get Info. Here you will see the path to the folder, and it should designate the new drive location.</div>
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<b>4) Delete the Old Users Folder</b></div>
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With the User folder successfully moved and linked to the new location, you can now delete the old User folder. After sending it to the Trash, empty the Trash.</div>
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<b>5) Create a Symbolic Link to the New Users Folder</b></div>
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This last step may be the most important. Many applications (i.e. iTunes) will look for the Users folder on the same hard drive where OS X is installed. However, we have moved the folder, thereby "breaking" the application. We can fix that by creating a symbolic link to the new folder location.</div>
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Don't be fooled. A symbolic link is not the same thing as an alias. A symbolic link (symlink) is recognized by the OS X filesystem, whereas an alias is only used by Finder. The easiest way to create a symlink is to use a utility named <a href="http://seiryu.home.comcast.net/~seiryu/symboliclinker.html">Symbolic Linker</a>. Download the utility and carefully follow the installation instructions. Then Control-Click on the Users folder and choose to Make Symbolic Link. You will now have a new folder named "Users symlink". While holding the Command key, drag and drop this folder to the same location as your original Users folder (that you have since deleted). Holding the Command key forces the folder to be moved instead of copied between hard drives. After you move "Users symlink", rename it to "Users". Now every application that looks for the Users folder will be redirected to the new location on your local data drive.</div>
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<b>6) Enjoy the Improved Performance</b></div>
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That's it! You have successfully moved the Users folder. Now the Mac Pro will more effectively use the computer's fast SATA capability to access data from multiple drives simultaneously, essentially increasing the speed of the computer.</div>
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I have not completed benchmark speed tests to scientifically quantify the performance improvement, but anecdotally, applications do run faster. Observing the DiskLED icons, I can visually see that the OS X drive is no longer being accessed constantly since the files have been spread across two drives. This is most obvious when using disk intensive graphics applications like <a href="http://www.apple.com/ilife/iphoto/">iPhoto</a> or <a href="http://www.gimp.org/">GIMP</a>.</div>
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As a bonus, moving the Users folder will make it easier to transition the user data to a new computer because all of the data is installed on one drive. This also makes creating backups a more simple process; I no longer have to select specific folders from the OS X drive, I just backup the entire local data drive!</div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-76729257803597419072011-11-05T14:00:00.000-04:002011-11-05T14:00:37.283-04:00This Holiday Season, Support Your Small, Locally-Owned Businesses!<div style="text-align: justify;">
I don't often re-post other people's work, but I believe that the message I've published below is worth repeating. I am not certain who the original author is, as I have seen this same message on a couple of other websites. And I would have probably written it a bit differently. However, the basic idea remains reasonable and sound. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsG7OZWQ9YnW2loADc_4ZK_cWLuKudSUVYVmoGf3BoEariMFcd-imESYsu0umEJkd9jnIZJNWyCnjs67AprQOh3GJ8xrjwWrmGDZEDvPoY7kbFYVZsQNnsB6C90kdW16YUSPhcqE1rlpDe/s1600/buy-local-cop200pix.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsG7OZWQ9YnW2loADc_4ZK_cWLuKudSUVYVmoGf3BoEariMFcd-imESYsu0umEJkd9jnIZJNWyCnjs67AprQOh3GJ8xrjwWrmGDZEDvPoY7kbFYVZsQNnsB6C90kdW16YUSPhcqE1rlpDe/s200/buy-local-cop200pix.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div>
It doesn't matter if you are a Democrat or a Republican, whether you live in a big city or a small town, whether you have a lot of money or if you are struggling to make ends meet. We all stand to benefit if you please support the small, locally-owned businesses in your community this holiday season. The gifts are likely to have more meaning to the recipients, and our society is certain to benefit from the economic stimulus.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Christmas 2011 -- Birth of a New Tradition</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As the holidays approach, the giant Asian factories are kicking into high gear to provide Americans with monstrous piles of cheaply produced goods -- merchandise that has been produced at the expense of American labor. This year will be different. This year Americans will give the gift of genuine concern for other Americans. There is no longer an excuse that, at gift giving time, nothing can be found that is produced by American hands. Oh.... Yes there is! </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It is time to think outside the box, people. Who says a gift needs to fit in a shirt box, wrapped in Chinese produced wrapping paper? </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Everyone -- yes EVERYONE gets their hair cut. How about gift certificates from your local American hair salon or barber? </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Gym membership? It's appropriate for all ages who are thinking about some health improvement. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Who wouldn't appreciate getting their car detailed? Small, American owned detail shops and car washes would love to sell you a gift certificate or a book of gift certificates. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Are you one of those extravagant givers who think nothing of plunking down the Benjamins on a Chinese-made flat-screen TV? Perhaps that grateful gift receiver would like his driveway sealed, or lawn mowed for the summer, or driveway plowed all winter, or games at the local golf course. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">There are a gazillion owner-run restaurants -- all offering gift certificates. And, if your intended isn't the fancy eatery sort, what about a half dozen breakfasts at the local breakfast joint. Remember, folks this isn't about big National chains -- this is about supporting your home town Americans with their financial lives on the line to keep their doors open. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">How many people couldn't use an oil change for their car, truck or motorcycle, done at a shop run by the American working guy? </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Thinking about a heartfelt gift for mom? Mom would LOVE the services of a local cleaning lady for a day. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My computer could use a tune-up, and I KNOW I can find some young guy who is struggling to get his repair business up and running. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">OK, you were looking for something more personal. Local crafts people spin their own wool and knit them into scarves. They make jewelry, and pottery and beautiful wooden boxes. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Plan your holiday outings at local, owner operated restaurants and leave your server a nice tip. And, how about going out to see a play or ballet at your hometown theatre. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Musicians need love too, so find a venue showcasing local bands and purchase their CD's.
Honestly people, do you REALLY need to buy another ten thousand Chinese lights for the house? When you buy a five dollar string of light, about fifty cents stays in the community. If you have those kinds of bucks to burn, leave the mailman, trash guy or babysitter a nice BIG tip. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">You see, Christmas is no longer about draining American pockets so that China can build another glittering city. Part of Christmas is now about encouraging American small businesses to keep plugging away to follow their dreams. And, when we care about other Americans, we care about our communities, and the benefits come back to us in ways we could not imagine. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">THIS is the new American Christmas tradition!!
Forward this to everyone on your mailing list </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">-- post it to discussion groups. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">-- throw up a post on Craig's List in the Rants and Raves section in your city. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">-- send it to the editor of your local paper and radio stations, and TV news departments.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This is a revolution of caring about each other, and our country. </span></div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-8229142870695475582011-11-03T21:17:00.000-04:002011-11-03T21:17:06.778-04:00We're Living on a Ball of Confusion<div style="text-align: justify;">
One of the perks of my job is rather frequent business travel. I call it a perk because a portion of the travel is regional and it allows me to drive my own car. Unlike some people, I enjoy driving about the countryside, and I have often said that my vehicle's windshield is the very best window in the office!</div>
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I often listen to satellite radio while I drive. Sometimes it's news programming or talk radio, but I mostly listen to my favorite music from the 1970s and 80s. Hearing these songs again after thirty or more years can be an experience. Certainly I recall the popular melodies and the majority of the lyrics. However, now that I am older, I tend to pay more attention to the song's message.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuW7PCtWh-E-enYg49pASpK4B3eAusFtmnd7WDzGdZGvbapUrffaV7SgUzzskkEp9vxiICiivW-z-poO758-2EDHymkI4njqKTB6Qk-siZ_1L2_fUpvPCPb8AooQSUF6RkS6ckJws0xZ3h/s1600/temptations-ball-of-confusion1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuW7PCtWh-E-enYg49pASpK4B3eAusFtmnd7WDzGdZGvbapUrffaV7SgUzzskkEp9vxiICiivW-z-poO758-2EDHymkI4njqKTB6Qk-siZ_1L2_fUpvPCPb8AooQSUF6RkS6ckJws0xZ3h/s200/temptations-ball-of-confusion1.jpeg" width="198" /></a></div>
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One song that has really (re)captured my attention is "Ball of Confusion," performed and recorded by the Temptations in 1970. I recall listening to this song when it first came out and considering the state of the world at that time, I believe that their song had great meaning. The beauty is, the song is still very much relevant today. For me, that staying power is the sign of a true work of art. It's quite possible that this song will remain quite relevant for years to come. Let's hope that humanity can prove me wrong.</div>
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If you haven't heard the song lately, here are the lyrics. Read them carefully and enjoy.</div>
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People movin' out<br />
People movin' in<br />
Why, because of the color of their skin<br />
Run, run, run, but you sho' can't hide<br />
An eye for an eye<br />
A tooth for a tooth<br />
Vote for me, and I'll set you free<br />
Rap on brother, rap on<br />
Well, the only person talkin'<br />
'Bout love thy brother is the preacher<br />
And it seems,<br />
Nobody is interested in learnin'<br />
But the teacher<br />
Segregation, determination, demonstration,<br />
Integration, aggravation,<br />
Humiliation, obligation to our nation<br />
Ball of Confusion<br />
That's what the world is today
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The sale of pills are at an all time high<br />
Young folks walk around with<br />
Their heads in the sky<br />
Cities aflame in the summer time<br />
And, the beat goes on<br />
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Air pollution, revolution, gun control,<br />
Sound of soul<br />
Shootin' rockets to the moon<br />
Kids growin' up too soon<br />
Politicians say more taxes will<br />
Solve everything<br />
And the band played on<br />
So round 'n' round 'n' round we go<br />
Where the world's headed, nobody knows<br />
Just a Ball of Confusion<br />
Oh yea, that's what the world is today<br />
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Fear in the air, tension everywhere<br />
Unemployment rising fast,<br />
The Beatles' new record's a gas<br />
And the only safe place to live is<br />
On an indian reservation<br />
And the band played on<br />
Eve of destruction, tax deduction<br />
City inspectors, bill collectors<br />
Mod clothes in demand,<br />
Population out of hand<br />
Suicide, too many bills, hippies movin'<br />
To the hills<br />
People all over the world, are shoutin'<br />
End the war<br />
And the band played on.<br />
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Copyright 1970 Jobete Music Company, Inc.Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-75370870543633057802011-10-10T22:14:00.001-04:002011-10-10T22:29:05.224-04:00Paintless Dent Repair Using a Heat Gun and a Can of Compressed Gas Duster<div style="text-align: justify;">
Our daughter surprised us this past weekend by getting into a fender bender with my car. It was a very minor incident and fortunately nobody was injured. However, now I was faced with the task of dealing with a couple of dents in my car.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgagxr9AefX4dfEQCIB9yYnYGiActYAFuGl7XCSn_lpbPHZSECoSwnWHoGdmvmueT3VlurWrnp7a7I4Qv6oZaNnCNMot3dtMukmgpn2gfcLl_7BZiSjZpoiYNJH2yc2aB6dmhhxjcFC-Wc9/s1600/Dents_Before.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgagxr9AefX4dfEQCIB9yYnYGiActYAFuGl7XCSn_lpbPHZSECoSwnWHoGdmvmueT3VlurWrnp7a7I4Qv6oZaNnCNMot3dtMukmgpn2gfcLl_7BZiSjZpoiYNJH2yc2aB6dmhhxjcFC-Wc9/s400/Dents_Before.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As you can see by the before-photo above, the damage was limited to two small areas. A large dent between the tail light and the gas tank filler door, and a small dent between the gas tank filler door and wheel well. Neither dent included any tearing of the metal or removal of the painted finish. It was just two simple dents. While I am not a body repair technician, I am an avid do it yourself kind of guy. It wouldn't be my nature to take this job to the body shop without trying to repair it myself first.</div>
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If I could access the rear quarter panel from behind, I could probably push the damage out with ease. The problem that I faced; there was no easy way to access the body panel from behind. In this vehicle the space between the body panel and the interior trim houses a rear air conditioner unit that leaves no access to the body panel.</div>
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I determined that I could try to pull out the dent by use of a suction device, or by drilling holes and using a dent puller. Well, I do not own a powered suction device, and purposely making holes in the car body would turn this into a more time consuming and expensive auto body repair project than what I was ready to tackle.</div>
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Then I recalled reading about paintless dent repair services. Maybe there was a way that I could do the same type of repair myself?</div>
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After some quick Internet searches, I found several videos of a technique that called for the application of a heat source (i.e. heat gun, hair dryer, or small torch) then a cold source (i.e. the liquid propellent used in compressed air dusters) to expand then contract the metal. The process was supposed to pop-out the dent, placing the body panel back into its original shape. Some of the videos demonstrated what was apparently a successful repair, while others were an obvious failure and claimed hoax. While I had no desire to play <a href="http://dsc.discovery.com/tv/mythbusters/">Mythbusters</a>, the junior high school science fair aspect of the process intrigued me and I convinced myself that it was worth a try.</div>
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I already owned a powerful heat gun that is intended for use in removing paint and softening adhesives. Think of it as a supercharged hair dryer, except that this model can provide temperatures that are close to 1,000º F (538º C). If I was not careful, the heat source would easily peel the paint right off the vehicle's body panel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRh4PG7ig_ly6u4thP_Km8Bg55xZyc2UJmiEF7JkX09HPpXQjTEtCW0BLCFN_Ix8GuoORgUTQ8lIB-1L43WAC1XvN8j4LU7K0xOB77rPbMXHK0bWZfoBfgOsZ3eqMkLn0W0xIkinMv98ZU/s1600/endust.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRh4PG7ig_ly6u4thP_Km8Bg55xZyc2UJmiEF7JkX09HPpXQjTEtCW0BLCFN_Ix8GuoORgUTQ8lIB-1L43WAC1XvN8j4LU7K0xOB77rPbMXHK0bWZfoBfgOsZ3eqMkLn0W0xIkinMv98ZU/s200/endust.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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For the cold source, I stopped by the local <a href="http://www.target.com/p/Endust-Duster-10-oz-2-pk/-/A-13660027">Target</a> and purchased a two-can pack of Endust for Electronics, Multi-Purpose Duster. The two-pack of 10 ounce cans was priced at $8.99. Typical of these kinds of canned air packages, Endust Duster contains <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1-Difluoroethane">Difluoroethane</a>. In addition to serving as a refrigerant for air conditioners, Difluoroethane is also commonly used in many consumer aerosol products such as canned air dusters.</div>
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Used as intended, the can is held upright and when the trigger is pressed, a stream of high-pressure air is released from the can. The dry, anti-static nature of the canned air makes it perfect for blowing dust and debris from sensitive electronic equipment. However, when the can is held upside down and the trigger pressed, the can releases a stream of the liquid Difluoroethane. As it is emitted from the can, the liquid has a temperature of approximately -13º F (-25º C). Definitely cold enough to cause frostbite or other possible injury to the user and anyone nearby.</div>
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It's important to note that the canned air is NOT intended for use in this manner. The Endust Duster can has clear warnings that you should never hold the can upside down and release the liquid Difluoroethane. <i><b>We do not endorse this use either and cannot be held liable for any injuries or damage that may occur from misuse!</b></i></div>
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Now I was ready to give the process a try. First I heated the dent area with the heat gun, making certain to move the heat source over the affected area to provide even and thorough heating. Apply the heat for three to five minutes, or until the metal is very hot to the touch. Then, holding the air duster can upside down, quench the dent with the liquid Difluoroethane for about ten seconds. The liquid will create a frosty coating on the hot metal. Allow the frost to thaw and wipe the condensation dry with a clean cloth.</div>
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Depending upon the severity of the dent, you may see the damage begin to magically repair itself. In the instance of my two dents, I had to repeat the process a few times. However, it <i>did</i> work!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnbJLip4-rTf7YSQCaWZoWtcJ_Bon9afagY4SIOrK9XHz5RnMMutnRaqxRdgssX5GKcOnMp_ihmh8vtNHa2lS18ydVhsb5w-NLl4jIF8BhdrJ9d7MJeXZQKUrKoQUij6rdno_ifcYIT5ik/s1600/Dents_After.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnbJLip4-rTf7YSQCaWZoWtcJ_Bon9afagY4SIOrK9XHz5RnMMutnRaqxRdgssX5GKcOnMp_ihmh8vtNHa2lS18ydVhsb5w-NLl4jIF8BhdrJ9d7MJeXZQKUrKoQUij6rdno_ifcYIT5ik/s400/Dents_After.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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In the un-retouched after-photo above, you can see that the large dent is virtually indistinguishable. The small dent between the gas tank filler door and the wheel well is still slightly visible. Based upon this repair experience, I have concluded that the degree of success with using this method depends upon the location and severity of the damage. In my case, the large dent was located in an area of the body panel that was relatively flat and void of strength. That seems to have been a factor in my successful repair. </div>
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The small dent was located along the curve of the wheel well and near the two arcing creases of the body panel. These features provide strength to the body panel and made repair of the dent more difficult. However, the process did in fact help to make the dent smaller and much less noticeable.</div>
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The following two-minute video summarizes the repair process and demonstrates the instructions provided above. If you have any doubt that this process really works, watch carefully at the 1:05 mark where the large dent pops back into place.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwfiwyjy5iI2KtgtCWax0HXN8a46hh9amUjsB8eAAHOxUoEVys0GJgaKdwtL0CV9WJF6Ni81FBrH_8QOJN2' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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To view a larger, High Definition version of this video (much better than what I could place here within the blog), please follow this link to <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9OGa9vB42Q">YouTube</a>.</div>
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So, can you repair dents in an automobile with a hair dryer and a can of compressed air? Yes and no. It depends upon the location and severity of the damage. But as I have demonstrated, with a heat gun, $9 worth of Endust Duster, and about 15 minutes, you can achieve some remarkable results.</div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-61537697298392969732011-10-04T22:17:00.000-04:002011-10-07T12:49:19.568-04:00Mazda CX-9 - Blower Motor Stays On After Key is Turned Off<div style="text-align: justify;">
A few weeks ago, our 2007 Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring model started doing something rather peculiar. When we turned-off the vehicle, the rear cabin fan would power-on at full-blast speed and continue to run for a few minutes. The blower would operate as expected when the vehicle was running; it was just this odd behavior when the ignition was turned-off.</div>
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A quick web search revealed that this seems to be a fairly common problem for Mazda CX-9 vehicles that were made between 2007 and 2009, and it's probably why you wound up finding this blog post.</div>
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There is a Technical Service Bulletin ("TSB") from Mazda concerning this problem: TSB 07-008/09, 2007-2009 CX-9 - BLOWER MOTOR STAYS ON AFTER KEY OFF. The TSB details the replacement of the blower relays, Mazda Part No. G115-67-730. There are two; one for the front (dashboard) fan and one for the rear (center console) fan.</div>
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This is not a very complex repair. However, that does not stop most Mazda dealerships from generating a handsome profit from the typical customer's repair fears. We have learned that other CX-9 owners have paid $150 or more to their dealer and lost a good part of their day to have this repair done. We would like to show you how to do the very same repair for about $30 or less in a matter of a few minutes.</div>
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ANYONE can perform this easy and inexpensive repair. You do not need any mechanical training or special tools. A simple pair of pliers are all that is needed. Just follow these three steps.</div>
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<b>1) Confirm the problem.</b> Okay, this seems kind of silly, but you should make certain that the problem we are explaining how to fix is really your vehicle's issue. When you turn-off the ignition on your 2007, 2008, or 2009 Mazda CX-9, does the front or rear cabin blower fan suddenly turn-on and then run for a few minutes? Problem confirmed. Proceed to the next step.</div>
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<b>2) Purchase replacement relays.</b> Surprisingly, there are a limited number of sources for these electrical components. What's even more surprising is that we found the best price from a Mazda dealership! If you live close to a dealer, phone their parts department and ask them for the price of Mazda Part No. G115-67-730 (Blower Motor Relay). If they want to charge you more than $15 each, consider making the purchase online.</div>
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We found the best price from a Mazda dealer in Arlington, Virginia; Rosenthal Mazda. They sell the relay for $12.68 each with reasonable UPS shipping costs. We ordered the parts late one evening and received them in the afternoon two days later. <a href="http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/RELAY-(G115%252d67%252d730).html">CLICK HERE</a> to go to the part listing on this dealer's online store. Here is a photo of what you should have purchased and received.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha4GRFGDYmw7zu8eC7D5uTEPoF6wq1zfpK3vhHSqXQTI4dO1TBbO_V-j9DBLUh6-zzzyhlAgCGHCHAZYslvQh8AODFMQcE7CJLFPIK7O1oBxdQw-M_mLaA8NwCCD96aZ59JtAgMYS7nkva/s1600/IMG_1617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha4GRFGDYmw7zu8eC7D5uTEPoF6wq1zfpK3vhHSqXQTI4dO1TBbO_V-j9DBLUh6-zzzyhlAgCGHCHAZYslvQh8AODFMQcE7CJLFPIK7O1oBxdQw-M_mLaA8NwCCD96aZ59JtAgMYS7nkva/s400/IMG_1617.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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You will need two relays; one for the front blower and one for the rear blower. Even if only one fan is acting-up, we recommend that you replace both. The parts are inexpensive and the repair is easy. Fix them both while you have the hood open!</div>
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We also found these blower motor relays for sale on eBay. However, they were used parts and we cannot recommend that you purchase a used part for this repair. When a brand new relay can be purchased for such a low price, why bother with a used part that is likely to fail quicker?</div>
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<b>3) Replace the defective relays.</b> This step is best demonstrated through a series of photos.</div>
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Open the hood to the engine compartment and look to the far-right, near the firewall (top right corner). There you will find the relay box; the plastic box circled in red in the photo above. Press the latch on the front of the box to release the cover and expose the parts within.</div>
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Take a look at the inside of the cover after you remove it. Here you will see the layout of the various relays that are housed within this box. Note the location of the two Blower Motor Relays (F. BLOWER RELAY and R. BLOWER RELAY).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAjEYGj5WoBmlJW1p-i340r2d2bVhNVOB9F0wZwGNNX59eI9NhqovMYqEe1Pz8IjP7ev_guDq_GvidQZGYw3f87-ATJSpd77Bbm3Yb0EPife0MNbkq_SBv0TWjO5nMOhXMp7hielDv65H/s1600/IMG_1625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAjEYGj5WoBmlJW1p-i340r2d2bVhNVOB9F0wZwGNNX59eI9NhqovMYqEe1Pz8IjP7ev_guDq_GvidQZGYw3f87-ATJSpd77Bbm3Yb0EPife0MNbkq_SBv0TWjO5nMOhXMp7hielDv65H/s400/IMG_1625.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Firmly grip the sides of the Blower Motor Relay with a pair of pliers and using a slight side-to-side motion, carefully loosen the relay and pull it from its socket. Repeat for the other Blower Motor Relay.</div>
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Insert the replacement relay into the vacant socket. Be certain to align the relay's tabs correctly. The relay's tabs are oriented such that the part will only fit when positioned correctly. If it does not seat with a firm push, make certain that it is properly aligned. Repeat for the other Blower Motor Relay.</div>
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Once both relays have been replaced, place the cover back on the box and make certain that it is secure. Close the engine compartment hood and wash your hands... you are done! Wasn't that easy?</div>
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<br />Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com35tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-6371034524793162572011-07-30T02:15:00.000-04:002011-10-07T12:48:25.367-04:00Ford Escape Hybrid Tone Ring Repair - Yet Another Problem with the FEH Brakes!<div style="text-align: justify;">
During one of the recent very hot days in the Mid-Atlantic (100+ degrees Fahrenheit temperatures) my 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid alerted me to a problem with my brakes while I was traveling in normal traffic conditions. The alert tone sounded, the yellow ABS warning lit, and the information display informed me to "Service Brake System."</div>
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With no cars directly behind me, I carefully tested my brakes and they seemed to operate as expected. The regenerative braking indicator showed that energy was flowing back to the high voltage batteries and the vehicle safely slowed down. Obviously, this was not another death-defying episode with a failed master cylinder and hydraulic control unit (Please see my previous blog posts: <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2010/01/my-ford-escape-hybrid-brake-repair.html">My Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Repair Experience - The Brakes Broke the Bank!</a> and <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2010/07/ford-hybrid-brake-failure-revisited.html">Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Failure - Revisited</a>), so I carefully pointed the car towards home. But this <u><i>was yet another</i></u> problem with the FEH's brakes! What could it be this time?</div>
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Since the brakes seemed to operate correctly, I directed my attention to the ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System). Recalling research from my earlier brake problems, I started by resetting the vehicle's computer by disconnecting the battery for a short time. That cleared the alarm, but a short test drive resulted in the problem quickly reoccurring.</div>
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I understand that the ABS computer stores the failure codes for later review. If you have access to such a device, you will likely find the following codes: C1142 - Wheel Speed Sensor Right Front Tone Ring Tooth Missing Fault; C1234 - Wheel Speed Right Front Input Signal Missing; U2023 - Fault Received From External Node. However, with no ABS diagnostic code scanning device available to me, I resorted to a physical, visual inspection of the brake components. It didn't take long to discover the problem. There on the passenger side, front axle was a broken tone ring.</div>
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So what is a tone ring? You may also find this component referenced as an indicator ring. This part is integral to the ABS. Coupled with an "electronic eye" sensor, this slotted ring is fitted to the axle at each wheel. The slots are used to send pulses to the ABS computer, indicating the speed of each wheel.</div>
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Since this tone ring was cracked, one of the slots was larger than the others. This sends false information to the ABS computer, resulting in the brake system malfunction that I experienced. What I discovered is that in this situation, the brakes still worked. However the ABS is apparently disabled, resulting in a potentially dangerous situation.</div>
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Why did the tone ring break? Good question. It is not a component that experiences any wear and tear; the ring is simply fitted to the axle at each wheel and allows the electronic eye to register pulses to determine the wheel speed. It appears as though corrosion (i.e. rust) between the axle and the indicator ring created enough pressure to force the ring to break. It's possible that the high ambient temperatures contributed to this failure by slightly expanding the size of the axle. However, based on my previous bad experiences with Ford's brake system design, I will chalk this one up to another poor component design; a potentially dangerous situation that never should have occurred! My research could not identify a technical service bulletin ("TSB") or recall notice associated with this issue, so if your warranty has expired, the repair is up to you.</div>
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How can you repair the broken tone ring? I determined that it's not a particularly difficult project. However, it may be beyond the scope of some shade tree mechanics as it does require some tools that are not often found in the typical household toolbox. I'll provide the steps that I took to complete the work, but I will recommend that you enlist the assistance of a more experienced mechanic if you are not skilled in these types of repairs.</div>
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I easily found the replacement part online at several retail sales websites. The original part number from Ford is 7L8Z-2C182-B. However, it has apparently been changed to AL8Z-2C182-A. You may want to try performing a search on both numbers in order to get the best comparison. Prices varied widely; I found that a single ring sold for between $7 and $35 (plus applicable taxes, handling, and shipping). I found what looked to be a reputable retailer that sold the "Genuine Ford Part" for about $15. It arrived just a couple of days after online purchase, so I was ready to tackle the project!</div>
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To complete the replacement of this important ABS component, start by carefully blocking the wheels of your Ford Escape Hybrid, engaging the parking brake, and lifting the corner of the vehicle that has the broken tone ring. After placing jack stands (or some other kind of safety blocks) under the car, remove the wheel. Then remove the two bolts that hold the brake caliper in place. A generous application of penetrating oil on the fasteners you will be removing goes a long way towards making your life easier for these kinds of projects. Buy a can and you will be very grateful... I promise!</div>
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After you have unfastened the brake caliper, you may want to carefully suspend it out of the way using a rubber strap / bungee cord to avoid placing too much stress on the hydraulic brake line; don't just let it hang there.</div>
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Next, remove the brake rotor. This can be a challenge as the part is often temporarily fixed to the axle, adhered by time and corrosion. If you cannot remove the brake rotor after a couple of simple taps with a hammer, follow the helpful advice provided in this <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs">instructional video</a> before you do something silly and break or damage your vehicle's brakes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnij1EMqLnHffkAa818KfJx0AQJAQEiF37oUzA7GL51l8SAeFcxYS7s2L_y6PTRO0qQkcULmHN6-1bsRzCJA2zknETxENrdLLbvwZ4lPfsODynFou-EjVoback6IoDvFGLvIEFVTGaRG-e/s1600/IMG_0866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnij1EMqLnHffkAa818KfJx0AQJAQEiF37oUzA7GL51l8SAeFcxYS7s2L_y6PTRO0qQkcULmHN6-1bsRzCJA2zknETxENrdLLbvwZ4lPfsODynFou-EjVoback6IoDvFGLvIEFVTGaRG-e/s320/IMG_0866.JPG" width="228" /></a></div>
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Now remove the electronic eye sensor that is coupled to the tone ring and move it out of the way; a single, small fastener holds it in-place. Disconnect the tie rod and remove the two bolts that connect the hub to the suspension strut. You can conveniently leave the hub connected to the lower ball joint while you finish the repair.</div>
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Now remove the nut connecting the hub to the axle. If the axle does not easily dislodge from the hub, you may need to use a gear puller (like I did) to push the axle out of the hub to get access to the tone ring. Allow the hub to lay to the side, out of the way, while you get down to business replacing the tone ring.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQbT5DRKHN9YCtY-CXr6pgqwWwYhE-oYCFAJCf3Ljcz_CWByLDDSsSyoCfb5U7yVxqqMYRQJPXTORYfxuHnMD8I9XtIua2JIX15fh6w__hQUc-73VsRvoW_H-z7fs5FHPAMLJAmOO5QgM/s1600/IMG_0871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQbT5DRKHN9YCtY-CXr6pgqwWwYhE-oYCFAJCf3Ljcz_CWByLDDSsSyoCfb5U7yVxqqMYRQJPXTORYfxuHnMD8I9XtIua2JIX15fh6w__hQUc-73VsRvoW_H-z7fs5FHPAMLJAmOO5QgM/s320/IMG_0871.JPG" width="228" /></a></div>
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Once the axle was free, the broken tone ring simply fell off the axle to the floor. Based on my observation, the area of the axle where the ring resided was slightly corroded and the original ring had only the one crack. The replacement ring looked virtually identical to the broken one (except for the crack!). It did not appear that Ford had done anything obvious to improve the design of the replacement part unless the metal alloy was somehow changed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JErIQJlil2RJSel4dSGLzmoDiFdLG3JaWbcwMxYL1Rtk6itUD3w-pUupnf5xXnUhxetAvQID8EeDiip_qtmQASvArGsgQojOlN3sksSQx7_o0r2elddw7fZ5GN-vdkChUPOVYfN3xxi_/s1600/IMG_0881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JErIQJlil2RJSel4dSGLzmoDiFdLG3JaWbcwMxYL1Rtk6itUD3w-pUupnf5xXnUhxetAvQID8EeDiip_qtmQASvArGsgQojOlN3sksSQx7_o0r2elddw7fZ5GN-vdkChUPOVYfN3xxi_/s320/IMG_0881.JPG" width="228" /></a></div>
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The replacement indicator ring would not easily fit in-place of the original, so I cleaned up the surface area with a small die grinder with a sandpaper barrel bit. Use special care not to remove too much material, just the obvious surface corrosion. I found that the new ring would not simply slide into place, which I was glad to see since I wanted the new ring to have a nice and tight fit on the axle. I carefully heated the new ring with a propane torch; not too hot, just enough to expand the diameter enough so that it could be tapped into place on the axle with a small hammer. Once cooled, the ring appeared to be fastened tightly in-place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd9AlY0Hrfv-4ziCpWPG8VDJGLFYHm-2SWOZEohmj_QcFesyhUkwg8w2YKx1IX92TJE_dCPvOAcImZiVPZuZMTXHWal3-P-pLARH42M_cU5Wyx_SobfRc58KDgsqC0VS5Uv4SAWgJpIFO-/s1600/IMG_0892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd9AlY0Hrfv-4ziCpWPG8VDJGLFYHm-2SWOZEohmj_QcFesyhUkwg8w2YKx1IX92TJE_dCPvOAcImZiVPZuZMTXHWal3-P-pLARH42M_cU5Wyx_SobfRc58KDgsqC0VS5Uv4SAWgJpIFO-/s320/IMG_0892.JPG" width="228" /></a></div>
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With the new tone ring installed, I proceeded to reassemble the rest of the axle and hub assembly, including the brake rotor and caliper. Once the wheel was mounted, I was able to remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. A brief test drive in a safe area that allowed me to perform several hard-braking, quick stops, demonstrated that the ABS was working correctly and that the new indicator ring had resolved the problem.<br />
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In the end, the repair process took less than three hours, including preparation and clean-up time. The total out-of-pocket cost was less than $20, including a fresh can of penetrating oil. Assuming the usual labor and shop charges, performing this repair myself must have easily saved me a few hundred dollars.</div>
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I hope that these instructions may help you fix your own Ford Escape / Mercury Mariner Hybrid tone ring problems. If you have experienced this or any other issues with the brakes on your Ford hybrid vehicle, please file a complaint with the Office of Defects Investigation ("ODI") at the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration ("NHTSA"). You can file a safety complaint at this web site... <a href="http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/">http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/</a> or by calling the NHTSA Safety Hotline, Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. at (888) 327-4236, TTY: (800) 424-9153. Maybe one of these days the NHTSA will have Ford address these potentially dangerous issues with the brake systems on their hybrid vehicles.</div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-12647513605283863552011-07-14T23:40:00.000-04:002014-08-16T11:22:53.125-04:00To Kill A Cicada Killer (Wasp)<div style="text-align: justify;">
Let me begin with a statement that I am not normally a garden pest killer. I prefer to get rid of the pests' attraction to my yard as the method of elimination. That has proven to be the most successful solution over time. However, this instance wasn't that easy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6AALJ10ZyaXbzOUSbaTzkUBbc1eamPZtRulVW1no8uyTXmqOLauewY0_SJYly9sSm8dcc0hpO0K_qnwK8FKRkbqOAhTcY-rHTGTAetinkc5tsNod8Zx7Mf1uQkhDdrq-GdM9XG1WN7TM/s1600/cicada+killer+face.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6AALJ10ZyaXbzOUSbaTzkUBbc1eamPZtRulVW1no8uyTXmqOLauewY0_SJYly9sSm8dcc0hpO0K_qnwK8FKRkbqOAhTcY-rHTGTAetinkc5tsNod8Zx7Mf1uQkhDdrq-GdM9XG1WN7TM/s200/cicada+killer+face.jpeg" height="132" width="200" /></a></div>
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Several years ago, we noticed a nest of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eastern_cicada_killer">Cicada Killer Wasps</a> in our yard. I wasn't too alarmed because my research had revealed that these ground dwelling insects were relatively harmless and almost certain not to sting under any circumstance. That didn't make the wasp any less intimidating though. With a length of over two inches, menacing coloration, and active swarming, they can put the scare in just about anyone.</div>
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The good news is that the wasps have a relative short life-span and are only around for a few weeks a year at the end of July / beginning of August. They propagate by laying their eggs into the bodies of Cicadas that they capture and kill, so you are most likely to see them during the same time that Cicadas are present. Since the wasps are attracted by Cicadas and the favorable soil conditions of our yard, there was no way of making this site less attractive to them (i.e. We weren't willing to cover the yard in several inches of mulch or attempt to eliminate the Cicadas!).</div>
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The bad news is that they apparently found the conditions our yard favorable for nesting and over the course of a several years had multiplied to a good-sized colony. This year dozens of nests appeared throughout the yard; we decided that something had to be done about them. </div>
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I found several commercial insecticides that would do the trick, but we were concerned about using these types of toxic chemicals around our family's pets.</div>
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We read about physically killing them... literally swatting them out of the air with a tennis racquet and smashing them by foot. Uh. No thank you.</div>
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One home brew method captured our attention. It required the application of household ammonia into the underground nest; something that would be harmless to our pets in the manner in which it would be used. It would also be a relatively inexpensive solution compared to the costly commercial insecticide sprays and powders. We decided that it was worth a try.</div>
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The idea is to identify the Cicada Killer Wasp nests during the day while the insects are active. That was easy. The wasps actively swarm low to the ground and emerge from the soil from a distinctive hole (about 1/2 inch in diameter) with a pile of excavated earth beneath the entrance to the underground nest. We flagged each of these nests with a colorful plastic knife; something that would be easy to see under low-light conditions.</div>
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Later that day, in the evening when temperatures had dropped and the wasps were back to their nests and inactive, we returned with our materials. We came armed with a flashlight, small funnel and a bottle of household ammonia (scented is okay). At each nest, we inserted the funnel and poured about one (1) to two (2) cups of ammonia into the hole. Then upon removing the funnel, we covered the entrance hole with some of the excavated soil and tamped it firmly in place. This process was repeated at each nest location identified earlier in the day.</div>
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There are a number of wasp nests in our yard, and since the larvae don't all hatch on the same date the inhabitants continue to emerge over time. That means there have been new nests appearing almost each day. However, all of the nests that we have treated with our solution have remained sealed and inactive. Success!</div>
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We fully expect that we will need to repeat this process again for the next few years before we completely rid our yard of these pests, but based upon our effort to-date, the solution has worked. There is a noticeably smaller infestation of the Cicada Killer Wasps in our yard then what there has been over the past few years. Hopefully, this process will work for you as well.<br />
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Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com50tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-17346213198844742882011-03-08T19:32:00.000-05:002011-03-08T19:32:58.116-05:00When is an Oxygen Sensor not an Oxygen Sensor? My Honda Element Repair Experience.<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">My daughter came home from college for Spring Break concerned that her beloved 2004 Honda Element DX had a problem. The check engine light had recently came on, and she was worried that there may be something amiss with "Elle".</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I stopped by my friendly neighborhood mechanic, and he reported that the ODB-II code came back as P1157. According to <a href="http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=466877">Honda's list of ODB-II codes</a>...</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS Line High Voltage </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Circuit High Voltage </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range/Performance Problem </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">In Honda-speak, the Air / Fuel Sensor is also known as an Oxygen Sensor. The Element has two O2 sensors, one located right before the catalytic converter, and one located immediately after. There is a difference, so be certain you are working with the correct sensor.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Based on this information, it looked to me like the front O2 sensor had gone bad. With about 70,000 miles on the vehicle, that seemed about right.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIl2CZ_eIXETanOqmgU3sYlag9rxhH6irBELpuWfUNa-GxLkd4yYcmQkui8PC8Rx02b9uMjztxzKTWj0bUNbzzitPGQ5NUXGuyjwijnM6u72_axW7kImRBcgcUBzFlteQ9OrZNVJRLLLUr/s1600/bosch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="137" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIl2CZ_eIXETanOqmgU3sYlag9rxhH6irBELpuWfUNa-GxLkd4yYcmQkui8PC8Rx02b9uMjztxzKTWj0bUNbzzitPGQ5NUXGuyjwijnM6u72_axW7kImRBcgcUBzFlteQ9OrZNVJRLLLUr/s200/bosch.JPG" width="200" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">A quick look online provided several possible sources for a new replacement. <a href="http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/">Auto Parts Warehouse</a> is one of my favorite Internet auto parts retailers based on positive experiences with parts availability and competitive prices. Always being one to try and save a little money, I decided to purchase the replacement manufactured by Bosch (part no. <a href="http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Honda/Element/Bosch/Oxygen_Sensor/2004/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-4L/W0133-1613479.html?loc=Front&tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain&intcmpid=">W0133-1613479</a>) with a list price of $211.52 and a sales price of $51.95. Other Bosch parts have performed well, so I assumed that this would be a prudent purchase.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The new Oxygen Sensor arrived quickly. The Element went up on blocks to provide easier access to the exhaust system, and the original sensor came loose from the exhaust manifold after applying a bit of penetrating oil. I noticed that the old sensor was manufactured by Denso (part no. 234-9064).</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The Bosch replacement looked very similar, and the electrical connection was identical to the original equipment. This should be any easy repair, right?</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">After installing the new sensor, and resetting the Honda's diagnostic computer memory, I starting the engine anticipating a successful job. Unfortunately, after about 30 seconds the check engine light reappeared. Bugger!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The next day I drove the vehicle for several miles, and reset the computer again, all in hopes that the new Oxygen Sensor would be recognized. Unfortunately, the efforts were in vain as the check engine light remained on. A return trip to my mechanic revealed the same P1157 ODB-II code. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Based on my experience with other Bosch products, I doubted that this part was defective, and since it had been installed, it was no longer possible to return it to the retailer for a refund. However, it was possible that the Bosch sensor was not really a good candidate to be an original equipment ("OE") replacement. Was this the retailer's fault? Maybe, but browsing online revealed that many other retailers listed a number of different replacement sensors from a number of different manufacturers.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc72EawIVjURX26noqf6rLeo0I4DN3tdZ5C1mkeWhl29GX9nEnFWAwSqTum81pqlNH2uxrNz2aAm8mXNP-Eb11B8CSmePLGPcFIQtMhbHyz4XwV1UPX518Ipm4d83J78DzytEnWLxNTLHq/s1600/denso.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc72EawIVjURX26noqf6rLeo0I4DN3tdZ5C1mkeWhl29GX9nEnFWAwSqTum81pqlNH2uxrNz2aAm8mXNP-Eb11B8CSmePLGPcFIQtMhbHyz4XwV1UPX518Ipm4d83J78DzytEnWLxNTLHq/s200/denso.JPG" width="200" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Browsing back to the Auto Parts Warehouse website, I found the Denso replacement with a list price of $134.37 and a sales price of $73.95. Hmmm. This Denso model (part no. <a href="http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Honda/Element/Denso/Oxygen_Sensor/2004/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-4L/W0133-1839108.html?loc=Front&tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain&intcmpid=">W0133-1839108</a>) had a list price significantly lower than the Bosch model. Could it be as good? Since the original sensor was manufactured by Denso, I was willing to make the leap of faith that maybe this would resolve my problem.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">A couple of days later the second replacement arrived. Although the catalog number was different, the part number on the box was the same as the original sensor that I had removed. I was feeling more confident now, and I had the replacement installed in short-order. This time after resetting the diagnostic computer memory the check engine light stayed off and has remained off for another few hundred miles of travel.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">So why did the Denso O2 Sensor work, while the Bosch model did not? I am guessing that the Honda engine's computer expects readings from the various sensors that fit in a rather narrow range; something that the Bosch replacement could not deliver. This was an instance where a replacement part from the original equipment manufacturer ("OEM") actually made a difference.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">My lesson was learned. When dealing with Honda vehicles, an Oxygen Sensor is not an Oxygen Sensor; stick to the original brand! I hope that this information may save you some time <i>and money</i> with your next vehicle repair.</span></div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-71421672221149584042011-02-19T20:20:00.000-05:002011-09-29T18:38:23.536-04:00Ford Escape Hybrid - Electric Motor Cooling Pump, Do It Yourself Repair<div style="text-align: justify;">
[Editor's Note: This blog post is one of our most popular and it has prompted many excellent questions from interested readers. Please take the time to read through the comments at the end of this posting as the additional information may be very useful in your own efforts.]</div>
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My 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid has served me fairly well. With slightly more than 120,000 miles, it has only had one major issue (please see <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2010/01/my-ford-escape-hybrid-brake-repair.html">My Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Repair Experience - The Brakes Broke the Bank!</a> and <a href="http://blog.yagelski.com/2010/07/ford-hybrid-brake-failure-revisited.html">Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Failure - Revisited</a>).</div>
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When this hybrid electric vehicle ("HEV") was still rather new with about 17,000 miles, it suffered a failure of the electric motor cooling pump. I was traveling through the Appalachians in the middle of Pennsylvania when the "High Motor Temperature" warning came on. Some of you may be familiar with this issue. The display warns you to "Stop Vehicle Safely" and if you fail to do so within a few minutes the vehicle literally shuts down. Although it may be inconvenient, the shut-down is by design; to keep the electric motor and related components from being damaged from the high temperature caused by some failure of the cooling system.</div>
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After allowing the motor to cool off, I limped slowly to the nearest Ford dealer. They diagnosed the problem with the Motor Electronics Cooling System ("MECS") and replaced the Motor Electronics Cooling Pump (Part Number: 5M6Z-8C419-A) under warranty.</div>
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It so happens that Ford eventually issued a Technical Service Bulletin for this overheating problem. TSB 08-24-5 states that some 2005-2008 Escape Hybrid and 2006-2008 Mariner Hybrid vehicles may exhibit a red triangle light and codes indicating a transaxle overtemp. This condition may result in reduced power as the system activates fail safe operation. Codes P1A0E, P1A0F, P0A3C, P0A3E, P0A7A, P0A7C and P1A0D may also be set.</div>
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The first page of the TSB is shown below (the second page contains dealer billing information irrelevant to this shade tree mechanic repair, therefore it is not included).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHHcfggOzg3efnaCz4Lhr5m5p8B67FVWWHFKKmirB0K6y7wEsJv0Z2pXihz4B7GzXoLVq3DXcocXAKJzA9XpSQoXYKiAlX5qzwdMu4PfSLE7hhinn6Bxbi_mHStJ4CRjjkjSfazO3u_kM/s1600/TSB_08-24-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHHcfggOzg3efnaCz4Lhr5m5p8B67FVWWHFKKmirB0K6y7wEsJv0Z2pXihz4B7GzXoLVq3DXcocXAKJzA9XpSQoXYKiAlX5qzwdMu4PfSLE7hhinn6Bxbi_mHStJ4CRjjkjSfazO3u_kM/s640/TSB_08-24-5.jpg" width="443" /></a></div>
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I never gave the matter further thought since the replacement pump continued to work fine. Then a few weeks ago, I began to notice that the pump was operating rather noisily. I should have used that as a sign to proactively replace the part. However, I was complacent and before I took care of the pending failure I had a repeat of the "High Motor Temperature" and "Stop Vehicle Safely" warning.</div>
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Since I had driven another 100,000 miles since the first failure, I cannot really complain. From what I have read of other's experiences, it is not unusual for these components to fail after 50,000 miles.</div>
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With the vehicle out of warranty, I decided to see if this was a repair that I could complete myself. First I followed the procedure from the TSB.</div>
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[FORD] 1. After verifying the Motor Electronics Cooling System ("MECS") is at the proper level and condition, raise the vehicle on a hoist and with the ignition key in the run position, use a stethoscope to verify operation of the MECS pump.</div>
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[Me] The MECS pump cannot be seen from the top of the engine compartment, and is only visible from under the vehicle. It is located behind and below the radiator, just in front of the oil filter as shown in the photo below. Do not confuse this pump with the slightly smaller pump on the driver's side of the radiator. This other pump is part of the cabin heating system.<br />
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Well, I don't have a hoist or a stethoscope, but I used some jack stands to raise the front end a few inches and laid under the vehicle. Then I placed a short length of plastic hose between the pump and my ear to determine if it was operating. Nope. No sound from the pump.</div>
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[FORD] 2. If the pump is running, verify coolant flow into the MECS degas bottle. If there is no flow, verify hoses are not pinched or twisted and if no issues are found replace the pump with the listed kit part.</div>
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[FORD] 3. If the pump runs and there is coolant flow into the degas bottle this Technical Service Bulletin may not apply so follow normal diagnosis and repair.</div>
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[Me] Since the pump was not running, these two steps did not apply. And what the heck is a degas bottle? It's just a fancy name for what most of us call the coolant overflow tank.</div>
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[FORD] 4. If the pump is not running, tap the housing and listen for the pump to turn on.</div>
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[Me] Using a small hammer, I tapped the pump housing a few times and what do you know? After a few grunts and groans, and with a bit of noise, the pump began to operate again. It stopped after a few minutes, but it led me to the next step.</div>
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[FORD] 5. If the pump turns on after tapping, replace the pump with new service kit. The kit provides the necessary instructions and hardware.</div>
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[Me] There you go; it was time for a new motor electronics cooling pump. After seeing where the pump was located, I decided that the procedure was something that I could do myself. Two compression-type hose clamps, two 10 mm bolts and one electrical connection... just about anyone can perform this repair in the driveway. It would also be much less expensive than the $300 estimated dealer labor cost.</div>
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I checked with the local Ford dealer's parts department and they had part number 5M6Z-8C419-A in stock with a list price of $281.98. I also checked online and found it available for much less, as low as $177.37 (from <a href="http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-kit-water-pump-repair_5m6z-8c419-a.html">Ford Parts Giant</a>). Mentioning this to the dealer prompted them to drop their price to $225.58 without hesitation. Since I needed the repair completed quickly the discounted dealer price was a good deal for me, so I headed home with the parts to complete the work.</div>
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Ford's service procedure for the pump replacement couldn't be much more simple:</div>
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1. Remove old pump.</div>
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2. Install new pump.</div>
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Although Ford's instructions are correct, I would suggest that the steps listed below may be helpful if you are going to do the work yourself.</div>
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1. Optional: Securely raise the front of the vehicle using jack stands or blocks. Even a couple of inches makes the work so much easier.</div>
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2. Optional: Remove the protective plastic shroud under the engine compartment from the passenger side. There are five 10 mm bolts and one plastic pin. You CAN perform the repair work with this shroud in-place, but taking a couple of minutes to remove it makes the process so much easier.</div>
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3. Drain the coolant from the transaxle cooling system. Ford has an official procedure for this, but it seems overly complicated. I placed a clean, small bucket under the pump and carefully removed one of the hose connections allowing the coolant to drain into the container. Only about a gallon and a half or so drained from the system. If you are careful, you should be able to recover virtually all of the old coolant. I moved the bucket aside to reuse the coolant (more on that later) instead of dealing with an environmental hazard disposal issue.</div>
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4. After the coolant has drained from the system, remove the second hose connection.</div>
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5. Remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold the pump in place.</div>
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6. Remove the electrical connector.</div>
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The old pump on my vehicle was manufactured by Bosch, while the new replacement was made by Cooper Superior. The new model is obviously a highly modified design as you can see in the side-by-side photo below. The good news is that the new pump is a bolt-in substitute and no changes to the hoses or wiring are needed.<br />
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7. Bolt the new pump in-place with the two 10 mm bolts.</div>
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8. Connect the two hoses to the pump, and secure with the compression clamps.</div>
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9. Attach the electrical connector.</div>
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10. Replace the coolant. You may decide to use a new coolant mixture, or reuse the old coolant like I did. To make certain that no contaminants were introduced into the system, I strained the old coolant through a clean cotton cloth placed over a funnel. Ford has an official procedure for the refilling process as well. It includes venting the system at the transaxle; a task not easily done. I found that almost the entire volume of old coolant filled the degas bottle to the original level without a need to vent the system. Save the remaining pint or so that is leftover for the next step.</div>
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11. Turn the key to the run position and confirm that the new pump operates. With the pump running, verify coolant is flowing into the degas bottle. The level in the degas bottle should drop enough to allow the addition of the remaining coolant. In my case, the coolant level returned to virtually the same exact level it was before I started the repair.<br />
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Your installed replacement should look similar to the following photo.<br />
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12. Confirm that there are no leaks and that all connections are secure. Reattach the protective plastic shroud and carefully remove the vehicle from the jack stands or blocks.</div>
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Wasn't that easy? I'm not certain if I will still own this vehicle for another 50,000 or 100,000 miles. But if I do, I will be prepared to confidently complete this repair once again. Hopefully, these instructions will help you to do the same.</div>
Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com89tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-83787977408865893002011-01-29T20:14:00.000-05:002011-01-29T20:14:05.512-05:00Resolving Slow / Delayed OfficeJet Printing Through an Airport Express<div style="text-align: justify;">We run a mixed bag of computers in our house. There's a few desktop machines, and several notebooks; and they run operating systems that include different flavors of Apple's OS X, Microsoft Windows and our favorite Linux variant, Ubuntu. They all operate under a wireless network served-up nicely by an Apple Airport Extreme. The network also features an Airport Express that is dedicated to extending the wireless network via the WDS ("Wireless Distribution System") capabilities of the Apple devices, and another Airport Express that is used to provide for the remote location of a printer. Overall, the set-up has served its purposes nicely.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The remote printer is an older Hewlett Packard all-in-one device; an OfficeJet 7410 that is located in my office and near the children's rooms. It's a convenient location for a printer and the old HP inkjet has been a real workhorse having printed several thousand pages of reports and homework over the course of a few years.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The OfficeJet 7410 is connected to the Airport Express through a USB cable. The computers throughout the house are configured to access the printer through a Standard TCP/IP Port, using the IP address of the Airport Express and Port 9100. This is easy to configure on most any operating system and works best if you establish a set IP address for the Airport Express so that it does not change every time you power cycle the routers.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The Airport Express provides a secure connection to the printer, and printing speeds are reasonable for a wireless network. It's been great for the children who may choose to print from their notebooks from various locations throughout the house. This configuration has been used successfully for a few years with nary a hitch... that is until I upgraded the children's notebooks to Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">For some reason, once I upgraded the AMD 64-bit processor powered Dell Studio notebooks from Windows Vista to Windows 7 Home Premium, we encountered a printing problem with the OfficeJet 7410. The printing job would start in a timely manner and zip through most all of the document, but then it would hang for several minutes on the very last line or two of the document. Left to its own accord, the document would eventually finish and spit-out of the printer. However, the three to five minute wait for that last line to print would often seem like hours.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The interesting thing to me was that this problem was only with the 64-bit version of Windows 7 Home Premium and the HP OfficeJet 7410. Installations of Windows 7 32-bit Home Premium, Windows 7 64-bit Ultimate, and Windows XP on other computers in the house were able to print to the OfficeJet 7410 without a problem. The upgraded notebooks were able to successfully print to a network connected HP OfficeJet Pro L7780. And as you might expect, there was no printing issue with the Mac OS X or Ubuntu installations. What was the problem with the 64-bit version of Windows Home Premium and the network connected OfficeJet 7410?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Searching through the HP website for a solution was useless, and I could not find anyone else on the Internet who had this same problem. I tried a number of fixes; uninstalled / reinstalled the printer, installed new drivers, and changed IP addresses and ports. Nothing seemed to make a difference. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">After months of frustration and on a whim, I unchecked the "Enable Bidirectional Support" box under the Ports tab of Printer Properties. Presto! The print jobs now zip through to completion with no delay at the end, and there is no perceivable printing speed difference with the bidirectional support disabled.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I cannot explain why this solution works, I can only attest that it does. If you are experiencing slow or delayed printing with an HP printer network connected through an Apple Airport Express, this solution may work for you as well.</div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-61545712635101687112010-12-27T12:04:00.000-05:002010-12-27T12:04:50.977-05:00Creating a Disk Image of Your iLife '11 DVD<div style="text-align: justify;">Let me begin with a disclaimer. I do not endorse or approve of software piracy. However, I do believe that the legal owner of a software title should be entitled and able to make an archival copy of the original software media for safe-keeping.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">After being inconvenienced and financially disadvantaged more than once after misplacing or damaging my original application installation disks, I have made it standard practice to create a copy of any software title that I purchase; especially the expensive ones. These copies are stored in a fire-proof location, separate from the original disks, just in case they are needed at a later date for a fresh installation.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Roxio's Toast has been my go-to application for creating back-up copies. It has never failed to provide an accurate copy of an original application CD or DVD. That is, until now.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5x4z_EbGSPQIb7gk8_duaBKUaAluBMf8_ySSrJ38JAOLoOf0098mMQagVsKwi8jp72GFnS63yFQ8HUz5OclUzPPAKXohpFPk2TxK5135U7ndh5GhhvCNjK64Eo9_U6a_GGWQtTnwD49uo/s1600/iLife_box_314px.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5x4z_EbGSPQIb7gk8_duaBKUaAluBMf8_ySSrJ38JAOLoOf0098mMQagVsKwi8jp72GFnS63yFQ8HUz5OclUzPPAKXohpFPk2TxK5135U7ndh5GhhvCNjK64Eo9_U6a_GGWQtTnwD49uo/s200/iLife_box_314px.jpeg" width="195" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I recently acquired the latest version of iLife from Apple. The updates to iPhoto, iMovie, and GarageBand installed without issue and brought many new features that make using our Apple computers even more enjoyable. The problem I encountered was when I tried to create my back-up copy of the iLife '11 DVD. Toast gave a valiant effort, and spun the DVD for quite some time, but it eventually returned error codes and messages that suggested the disk was copy-protected. The same result was obtained whether I tried to duplicate the DVD, or create a disk image. Bummer.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The obvious fall-back was to use the capable, but sometimes intimidating, Mac OS X Disk Utility. The Disk Utility app offers several powerful features for managing your Mac's disk drives; an indispensable utility application! It's also entirely capable of making your computer completely unusable if you are not careful. Hence, the "intimidating" description.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">After opening Disk Utility with the iLife '11 DVD in the optical drive, I selected the DVD from the list of mounted disks in the column to the left. Then from the Disk Utility menu, I selected File->New->Disk Image from "iLife '11 Install DVD." Again, error codes and messages that suggested the disk was copy-protected. How could I get around this "feature" from Apple?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Back to the Disk Utility menu, but this time I selected File->New->Disk Image from Folder, and <i>selected the iLife '11 Install DVD as if it were a folder</i>. I chose an image name that's meaningful; usually the default DVD title. I also use the "Read-Only" Image Format to prevent accidental changes to the copy. A compressed format is also read-only, but it takes more time to create and to open the final image. After hitting the Save button, I was happy to watch Disk Utility successfully create a copy of the iLife '11 Install DVD.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">With a good disk image having been created, I was able to burn the file to a DVD for safe-keeping. Only time will tell if Apple will allow iLife '12 (or other software titles) to be copied in this way, but for now I am happy. I've got my archived copy of iLife '11 safely put away.</div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-7749709240523530102010-12-20T02:10:00.000-05:002010-12-20T02:10:18.877-05:00IOGear GCS632U KVM Switch Hotkey Mode<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzToDmOCwqBIjXVCX6exNvWvYK6wPJpz5EjtKJ46LfdgXGpPjrroX8no5C-HAZ8hCRIkHu4dqb-_9fOtJyaU6pjr8H1lLUIVofBeSaf1id5mBgfFiZ2LxIq28fPyzpG3nDc8zLxxExFNC/s1600/KVM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="110" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzToDmOCwqBIjXVCX6exNvWvYK6wPJpz5EjtKJ46LfdgXGpPjrroX8no5C-HAZ8hCRIkHu4dqb-_9fOtJyaU6pjr8H1lLUIVofBeSaf1id5mBgfFiZ2LxIq28fPyzpG3nDc8zLxxExFNC/s200/KVM.png" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I've really enjoyed the use of my IOGear MiniView Micro USB Plus 2-Port KVM Switch for a couple of years now. I'm not certain why IOGear felt the need to give the device such an elaborate name. We'll blame their marketing folks for that.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">While I'm passing out blame, there's an important usability problem to pin on IOGear's technical writers. Let me explain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The IOGear Model GCS632U KVM switch is a really great device for sharing a single keyboard, video device, and mouse between two computers. The switch is conveniently operating system independent; I use mine to share a keyboard and mouse between a Microsoft Windows 7 and a Ubuntu 11.04 machine. It operates on built-in code, so there is no special software required on the host computers. Best of all, there are a few user-configurable settings to customize the user experience. The features are accessible via a special key sequence that will place the user in "Hotkey Mode". You can read more about the settings in the IOGear device's <a href="http://www.iogear.com/support/manual/GCS632U.pdf">User Guide [PDF]</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">One of the configurable features is to change the default port switching key from Scroll Lock, Scroll Lock to Ctrl, Ctrl; the change that I wanted to complete. The User Guide provides specific instructions to make this change by first placing the device in Hotkey Mode. To do this, the user must "(1) Press and hold Num Lock key for two seconds; (2) Press and hold Minus key [ – ] for one second; and (3) Release Minus key [ – ] and within one second also release Num Lock key."</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">With such precise timing specified in the manual, one might suspect that this was a really, really critical point. In fact, I spent way too much time trying to get the exact timing down just so I could simply change the default port switch key. Boy was I mistaken, and the technical writers sure made it much more difficult than it needed to be.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">For those of you who have been trying unsuccessfully to enter Hotkey Mode on the IOGear KVM switch by following the manufacturer's instructions, here's the trick. You only need to press and hold the Num Lock key for about one second (e.g. "one thousand one"), then casually press the Minus key and immediately release both keys at the same time. You should see the keyboard's Caps Lock and Scroll Lock status lights blink alternately signifying that you are in Hotkey Mode. Then you can configure the KVM switch as desired.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">I'm embarrassed to admit how long it took for me to get this key sequence down right. Hopefully by sharing the information here with you, I will have saved you some time and trouble.</div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-13273440386140715052010-12-12T00:53:00.002-05:002010-12-12T01:05:46.231-05:00Some Things Never Change<div style="text-align: justify;">If you've read some of my posts in the past, you know that I prefer to avoid discussions on topics of religion or politics. There are plenty enough other blogs which cover these topics, that I don't see a need to join the fray of controversy. However, I must disclose that this post presents one person's observations of a society that is divided on political matters. An observation that was made about people in the United States by an author almost 80 years ago. With that disclosure out of the way, here's the story.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">My wife and I enjoy visiting the Eastern Caribbean, and our travels have resulted in a genuine interest in the history of the islands and their inhabitants. That is what led me to recently gift my wife with a vintage book written by Desmond Holdridge. The story is a non-fiction, first-person account of Desmond and his wife, Elizabeth Hamlin Holdridge ("Bet"), who as newlyweds made their first home on the island of Saint John in the United States Virgin Islands ("USVI").</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFU_zWODlHByum_sEqWNn2Z-GqgwN9Cek0ehTc7_gYcp-3oS0ARxhuE86FNfnwx9i8sC7hi6wbVLg1ZyVvA2ThlJcoyOX3ltc_xQYSVl07FA-VGgTjg7oRmACykuSGWTzq3tMmstSoInR1/s1600/Escape+to+the+Tropics.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFU_zWODlHByum_sEqWNn2Z-GqgwN9Cek0ehTc7_gYcp-3oS0ARxhuE86FNfnwx9i8sC7hi6wbVLg1ZyVvA2ThlJcoyOX3ltc_xQYSVl07FA-VGgTjg7oRmACykuSGWTzq3tMmstSoInR1/s1600/Escape+to+the+Tropics.jpeg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The book is titled <a href="http://openlibrary.org/works/OL7558096W/Escape_to_the_tropics"><i>Escape to the Tropics</i></a>, copywrite 1937; published by Harcourt, Brace and Company (New York) and printed by the Quinn & Boden Company (New Jersey). For the first seven chapters, Holdridge does a splendid job of explaining how he and Bet interacted with the people of the USVI. It's a very entertaining account of island life in the early 1930s. Then the story takes an odd twist as Holdridge travels to British Guiana in search of Paul Redfern, a pioneer aviator who is believed to have crashed his plane in the South American jungle while attempting a long-distance flight from the United States to Brazil in 1927. Overall, it's a good vintage read, but this is not intended to be a book review, so let me get to the point of my blog post.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">In the first chapter, Holdridge explains why he and Bet decided to "escape to the tropics." The Depression had drastically changed their lives in the United States, and they were looking for a new start. Holdridge writes of his friends' opinions regarding the administration, the Federal Government, and politics in-general. I found his observations to be rather profound, especially when considering the current state of our society's growing political division. It made me realize that <b>some things never change</b>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">It's best to let Holdridge's own words demonstrate my fascination with his perspective. The following text is taken from select paragraphs of the first chapter, beginning on page 10 of the book.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">"All about us and all around the earth, near the forty-fifth parallel of latitude, the two most obvious ways of managing the vast, stupid, pathetic masses of mankind were feinting for advantage as antagonism deepened to a death struggle whose outcome will be peonage for most of us, no matter who wins. Karl Marx against Frederick William I; Stalin against Hitler; the State against the Man; the machine against the hand; the mind against the soul; our rich friends hysterically looking under the bed for Roosevelt and our poor ones ready to exchange their freedom for a cheap automobile and a comfortable place to defecate.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">We both thought that these places where myriads of people lived together in a life not seen before -- stigmatizing as Fascists all those who said some of the things were good, and damning for Communists all those who said some of the old things were bad -- were perilous places, because an ugly and unnecessary sacrifice to human stupidity was impending."</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">"It was a rather trying period. Many times I sat down at my typewriter and, instead of getting on with the business of producing something, anything, on it, I would worry about the dividing line that was appearing in all the things and people I knew. A very good friend with whom I was on terms of long standing intimacy was also quite wealthy and it seemed that every time I visited him he was in a bigger froth over what he called 'this damn Communistic trend.' One evening he lashed himself into a great fury and, holding an imaginary bridle in one hand and an imaginary blade of some sort in the other, he roared, 'Ride the bastards down, that's what! Ride among 'em, slashing right and left.'"</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">"Another equally good friend was poor and, together, we watched the progress of the Austrian civil war, a thoroughly dirty business, to my mind. But this friend was passionately in favor of the left wingers. 'I hope they kill every one of the bastards!' he said, referring to the yokels supporting the right wing.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Since then they have both become more so. The rich one helps run, as an amusement, a newspaper full of absurd propaganda about the sanctity of the Republican party; the other is a lesser priest of the New Deal. Neither one will love me for mentioning this matter, but had I listened seriously to the rich one, I should have been so revolted as to become a Communist, and listening to the poor one would have inevitably made me a Fascist. As it was, they made me want to get out of it, for both kinds of men will, sooner or later, be at each other's throats. Nor did I like the contours of the worlds they wished to construct, and I thought too well of both to take sides."</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">"I made an honest effort to understand their perspective worlds, which is more than most of the people who damn their viewpoints do."</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Upon reading this part of the book, I found myself very closely aligned with the thoughts of the author. His observations of his friends almost 80 years ago, were very much like my observations of my own friends today. Yes, it is true. <b>Some things never change</b>.</div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1413221578516620291.post-88244363543017321692010-11-03T14:50:00.000-04:002010-11-03T14:50:27.185-04:00Engineer's (Humorous) Conversion Table<div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">1. Ratio of an igloo's circumference to its diameter = Eskimo Pi</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">2. 2000 pounds of Chinese soup = Won ton</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">3. 1 millionth of a mouthwash = 1 microscope</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">4. Time between slipping on a peel and smacking the pavement = 1 bananosecond</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">5. Weight an evangelist carries with God = 1 billigram</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">6. Time it takes to sail 220 yards at 1 nautical mile per hour = Knotfurlong</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">7. 16.5 feet in the Twilight Zone = 1 Rod Serling</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">8. Half of a large intestine = 1 semicolon</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">9. 1,000,000 aches = 1 megahurtz</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">10. Basic unit of laryngitis = 1 hoarsepower</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">11. Shortest distance between two jokes = A straight line</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">12. 453.6 graham crackers = 1 pound cake</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">13. 1 million-million microphones = 1 megaphone</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">14. 2 million bicycles = 2 megacycles</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">15. 365.25 days = 1 unicycle</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">16. 2000 mockingbirds = 2 kilomockingbirds</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">17. 52 cards = 1 decacards</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">18. 1 kilogram of falling figs = 1 FigNewton</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">19. 1000 milliliters of wet socks = 1 literhosen</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">20. 1 millionth of a fish = 1 microfiche</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">21. 1 trillion pins = 1 terrapin</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">22. 10 rations = 1 decoration</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">23. 100 rations = 1 C-ration</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">24. 2 monograms = 1 diagram</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">25. 4 nickels = 2 paradigms</span></div><div style="color: #333333; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">26. 2.4 statute miles of intravenous surgical tubing at Yale University Hospital = 1 IV League</span></div>Kenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11519831519646337908noreply@blogger.com0