Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Wirelessly Extend Your Verizon FiOS Wi-Fi Network

The Verizon FiOS Internet service is really quite spectacular. With their Quantum service, I regularly experience direct-connected speeds of 60 Mbps download and 30 Mbps upload. However, the Actiontec MI424WR router is a weak link in their product. The wi-fi radio in this device is the source of frustration for many Verizon customers... me included.

Many FiOS users search for a way to extend the wi-fi capabilities of the Actiontec router. A simple Google search will reveal several options: tin foil reflectors, high-gain antennas, power line carrier sets, wi-fi repeater devices, and ethernet-connected remote access points. Some of these solutions work, some maybe not so much. None of them provided the answer that I was looking for.

I needed to solve three problems: (1) extend the range of my existing wireless network (and not by creating a new, separate wi-fi network); (2) provide ethernet network connections at a remote location in my home (for ethernet-connected computers, printers and console games); and (3) provide these two functions wirelessly (i.e. I did not want to install ethernet cable throughout the building for a new access point). The ideal solution would be a Repeater Bridge.

A Repeater Bridge connects two local area network segments with a wireless link. The two segments are in the same network, and to all of the computers on the network it looks like two ethernet switches connected by a cable. Since the computers are on the same network, broadcasts reach all machines. This is what I needed.

Sounds like an impossible task, right? Wrong. Fortunately, there is a rather simple and economic solution that is proven. It's not my idea, or my work, so no credit claimed here. I'm just providing you with the steps that I took, and a convenient source for all of the links to the necessary resources.

The solution is based upon the outstanding work of the very talented employees and dedicated user community at DD-WRT. The DD-WRT product is a Linux-based alternative OpenSource firmware designed for use with a variety of wi-fi routers. The idea is to load this custom firmware on the router which allows it to be more than simply an access point; to unleash the powerful device's enhanced capabilities... like the Repeater Bridge function we desired.

The DD-WRT community is probably best known for their work on enhancing the capabilities of the inexpensive Linksys WRT54G wireless router. While the WRT54G device is a real workhorse, it does not support IEEE 802.11n networks like that used by the Actiontec MI424WR. Therefore, I would need to start with another device.

The Linksys (Cisco) E2500 / N600 router is a dual-band N (2.4 and 5 GHz) device that supports transfer rates to 300 Mbps. More than sufficient for my needs. It is moderately priced, and can be found at most online and big-box retailers. It may sound funny to purchase a brand new router and essentially "hack" it. However, the hardware itself is really quite powerful, and we are just taking the steps necessary to leverage the capabilities of the DD-WRT firmware.

After installing the firmware and configuring the router as instructed, we are pleased to report that our DD-WRT powered Repeater Bridge has been working flawlessly on our network, having resolved many of our problems with the Actiontec router. If you are an advanced novice and are able to follow instructions, you can get the same results.

The actual steps we took are listed here with brief comments. Please carefully read the information at each of the provided links. While we are confident that these instructions work, we cannot be held responsible for any damage that may occur to your router, or the devices connected to your network. We are also not able to provide support for the DD-WRT firmware or instructions. Comments requesting such support will be deleted.

(1) Chose a router that you believe may meet your needs.

We chose the Linksys E2500 router since it supported 802.11n and had the dual-band and throughput capabilities that we desired.

(2) Navigate to the DD-WRT router database, and search for your chosen router to make certain that there is a current, up to-date firmware that supports the device.

Some routers are not supported by DD-WRT. Check before you buy!

(3) Acquire the router.

(4) Set-up and confirm that the router works as it was originally designed and that it performs the standard access point function.

For a brand-new router, there may be an initialization process that requires vendor-supplied software.

(5) Navigate to the DD-WRT wiki, and search for your chosen router. Carefully follow the instructions to replace the device's firmware.

The DD-WRT wiki will always have the most recent version of the firmware for your device. Do not trust other sources as installing the wrong version of the firmware may render your router useless.

I cannot stress enough to carefully follow all of the instructions. Do not skip a step regardless of how meaningless you may believe that it is.

(6) Navigate to the DD-WRT instructions on how to configure a Repeater Bridge. Carefully follow the instructions to configure the device for this specialized function.

I cannot stress enough to carefully follow all of the instructions. Do not skip a step regardless of how meaningless you may believe that it is.

(7) Enjoy the enhanced capabilities of your router, including the wireless extension of your Verizon FiOS Actiontec MI424WR router!

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Vinyl Tilt Window Won't Stay Open? Fix It Yourself!

The backyard of our property has a beautiful southern exposure with a wonderful view of an extended wooded lot and an uncluttered utility right-of-way beyond. The house has many large windows that allow us to enjoy this view. When the structure was built in 1999, the contractor chose to use a combination of inexpensive vinyl, single and double hung, tilt windows. I use the term inexpensive because the windows are not necessarily cheap or defective; they were just not made to last a lifetime.

Over the last couple of years, a few of the windows have experienced catastrophic failures of the balance mechanism. The balance mechanism allows the heavy, double-pane window to lift easily and to stay open at the desired height. Vintage windows used a combination of ropes, pulleys, and cast iron weights to provide this balance. Modern window designs rely on springs that are attached to the movable window frame. The failure of the balance mechanism in my house left the windows difficult to lift and in some cases, unable to stay open.

When faced with this issue, many homeowners believe they have no option and resort to replacing their windows. The fact is, just because they are broken doesn't mean they are not repairable. Since I am a bit frugal and not in a financial situation that would allow wholesale replacement of all the windows in our house, I decided to perform a relatively easy do-it-yourself repair.

I discovered that a common lifting mechanism failure for tilt windows was either the separation of the spring-loaded spiral balance from the pivot shoe or a broken pivot bar. Let me explain. One end of the  balance mechanism is attached to the top of the window, inside of the casing. A spiral rod extends out of the balance spring tube to connect to the pivot shoe. The pivot shoe slides up and down the tracks that are located in the side jambs. The pivot shoes connect to the window via two bars that extend from the side of the moving window sash into a matching socket in the pivot shoe. This simple bar and socket connection at the two sides is what allows the window to tilt inward for easy cleaning.

When working properly, the spring of the balance is sufficiently loaded to allow the window to operate with ease. Should the balance mechanism's spiral rod come disconnected from the pivot shoe, or the pivot bar break, the spring will no longer be able to assit with the operation of the window.

Fortunately, replacement pivot shoes and pivot bars are much, much less expensive than replacing an entire window; and most novice do-it-yourself types should be able to tackle the job with standard hand tools and just a little time.

The first step is to identify the correct type and size of pivot shoe or pivot bar that is required to make the repair. Release the tilt mechanism of the broken window and carefully allow it to tilt inwards until the window is roughly perpendicular to the wall. Slide one side of the window up (or down) until the pivot bars are able to clear the pivot shoes and the window can be removed. Now you can get a clear view of what the broken components look like. 

There are many sources for window components, with several retail options available online. I have found SWISCO to have an excellent selection, reasonable prices, and good customer service. Once you know what the broken components looks like, and can obtain accurate measurements to make certain the replacement parts will fit and operate correctly, you can browse the selection of parts available from your store of choice. For example, here are the pivot shoes that I needed for my windows.

In order to safely grip the spiral rod and twist it to "charge" the spring, you need a special tool. The tools are not expensive, so don't risk hurting yourself or breaking the window by trying to use a shortcut method. Here is a spiral balance charging tool for tilt windows as sold by SWISCO. It's a no-frills model, but if you are only repairing a couple of windows this is all that you need.

When you have the replacement parts on-hand, you are ready to replace the broken pivot shoe or pivot rod. Begin by removing the window as previously described. 

If you are replacing a broken pivot rod, the repair is very straight forward. With the removed window being held securely, simply remove the hardware that fastens the broken pivot rod to the frame and install the new one. Presto! The window is ready to be put back into place.

If you must replace a broken pivot shoe, the process is a bit more involved. With the window removed and set aside in a safe place, slide the broken pivot shoe to the bottom of the track. Use a utility knife (with a new, sharp blade) to cut away a small part of the track lip that holds the pivot shoe inside of the track. Be careful to only remove as little of the track material as needed. This will help to make certain that the new pivot shoe will not slip out of place or become jammed, preventing the window from operating correctly.

Using a pair of pliers, firmly grip the broken pivot shoe and remove it from the track. It may break into pieces (if it is not already broken; the reason you are replacing it). Place the new pivot shoe in-place, oriented in the correct position. The new pivot shoe may require some moderate force to "snap" into place within the track. A light hammer tap should not be a problem, just be careful not to damage the new component or the window jamb. If the new, replacement pivot shoe is sized correctly, it should slide freely along the track. A little furniture cleaner / wax (e.g. Pledge Furniture Polish) may help make the movement more smooth without creating a oily mess.

The spring of the spiral balance must be charged before it is connected to the new pivot shoe. Using the spiral balance charging tool, turn the spiral rod clock-wise about eight to ten times. With the tool still connected, pull the spiral rod down and slip the end of the rod into its corresponding slot on the top of the pivot shoe. Once the pivot shoe(s) have been replaced, carefully hold the window to place the pivot rods back into the pivot shoes, align the two shoes so that they are even in height, and snap the tilted window back into place. If the pivot shoes have been installed correctly, and the spring balance sufficiently charged, the window should move easily up and down, and stay in position when released. If the window will not remain open, you may need to remove the window and use the spiral balance charging tool to give the spiral rod a few more turns to increase the spring charge.

While these instructions may seem lengthy, the process to replace both pivot shoes on one window should take less than 30 minutes, including prep and clean-up.

I have used this process to repair several windows in our house. It's easy... Can be completed in short order... And it's a much less expensive alternative to complete window replacement.

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Ford Escape Hybrid - Brake Master Cylinder / HCU Failure and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)


In previous blog posts (Here and Here), we discussed the brake failure experience with our 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid ("FEH"). In our earlier posts, we provided the details regarding the failure of the regenerative braking system due to a defective master cylinder and hydraulic control unit ("HCU"). We continue to hear from many other Ford Escape and Mercury Mariner Hybrid owners who have experienced the same problem. Most all of them described the harrowing experience of having the electro-hydraulic brakes resort to failsafe mode; some resulting in accidents or near-misses.

We continue to encourage anyone else who has had this problem to file a complaint with the Office of Defects Investigation ("ODI") at the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration ("NHTSA"). If you have not already done so, you can file a safety complaint at this web site...http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ or by calling the NHTSA Safety Hotline, Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. at (888) 327-4236, TTY: (800) 424-9153.

Many new complaints have been filed since we last wrote about this problem. I have reproduced some of those below to help give you an idea of how similar the problems are amongst those who have experienced this brake failure.

CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10448561
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: THE BRAKES FAILED WHILE ATTEMPTING TO STOP AT A STOP SIGN. THE CAR WENT THROUGH THE STOP SIGN. A FEW MINUTES LATER WHILE DRIVING, THE ABS AND SERVICE BRAKES LIGHT CAME ON. I DROVE THE VEHICLE DIRECTLY TO THE DEALER. THEY WERE NOT ABLE TO LOOK AT IT UNTIL TWO DAYS LATER. I WAS TOLD THE BRAKE HOSES NEEDED REPLACING. I REPLACED THEM. THE BRAKES SEEMED TO BE WORKING. A FEW DAYS LATER, I GOT THE SERVICE BRAKES WARNING, AS WELL AS THE SERVICE 4X4 WARNING IN THE INFO SCREEN. THE BRAKES SEEMED TO BE WORKING. THIS TIME THEY REPLACED THE WHEEL SENSOR AT THE DEALER. ABOUT A WEEK LATER, I NOTICED THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS HARD WHEN INITIALLY PRESSED AND SOFTENED WHEN THE CAR WAS TURNED ON. I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD ABOUT 35 MPH WHEN THE SERVICE BREAKS AND ABS WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON AND THE BRAKES ONLY WORKED IF I PRESSED REALLY HARD TO THE FLOOR AND THEN IT WAS JERKY. I DROVE A SHORT DISTANCE TO RETURN FROM WHERE I STARTED AND TURNED OFF THECAR. WHEN I TURNED IT ON AGAIN A FEW MINUTES LATER, THE WARNING LIGHTS WERE OFF AND I HAD BRAKING POWER AGAIN. I DROVE A FEW MILES TO THE DEALER AND WHEN I PULLED INTO THE PARKING LOT TO PARK, THE BRAKES FAILED AGAIN AND WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON. THIS WAS A SUNDAY. THEY LOOKED AT THE VEHICLE ON MONDAY AND NOTICED THE HARD BRAKE PEDAL, BUT HE LIGHTS WERE NOT ON. THEY LOOKED AT THE COMPUTER SERVICE CODES AND INFORMED ME I NEEDED TO REPLACE THE HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT/ABS MODULE AND POSSIBLE THE MASTER CYLINDER AT A PRICE TAG OF $4300 - $5500+. THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE INTERMITTENT, BUT THE VEHICLE IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE. I KNOW I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH A 2005 HYBRID THAT HAS EXPERIENCED THIS MAJOR SAFETY PROBLEM.
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 01/21/2012
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 2/20/2012 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10436375
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER SEVERAL TIMES WHERE THE BRAKE PADS, ROTORS AND SENSORS WERE REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE WAS NOT CORRECTED. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TAKEN TO A LOCAL MECHANIC WHERE THE CONTACT WAS ADVISED THAT THE MANUFACTURER HAD PROVIDED A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN FOR THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 140,000.
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 12/18/2007
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 11/18/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10424395
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: ABS LIGHT AND BRAKE LIGHT WENT ON HEARD A BEEP AND HAD NO BRAKES WHAT SO EVER . I EVENTUALLY STOPPED BY ENTERING THE CAR IN TO NEUTRAL AND HITTING THE EMERGENCY BRAKE. TURNED THE CAR OFF AND WHEN I TURNED ON AGAIN IT WENT AWAY, MY MECHANIC SAYS ITS GOING TO COST $1000 MASTER CYLINDER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THANKS FORD FOR YOUR ASUPPORT WITH THIS OBVIOUS ISSUE YOU NEED TO ADDRESS. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 09/08/2011
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 9/8/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10410217
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK:CONTROL UNIT/MODULE
Details: TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON THE DASHBOARD. WHEN THE BRAKE WAS IT WENT TO THE FLOOR AND THE CONTACT COULD HEAR A GRINDING NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE ANTI BRAKING SYSTEM COMPUTER FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE, BUT OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 67,137. UPDATED 08/31/11 *BF THE CONSUMER STATED HE HAD TO PUT THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL AND USE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP THE VEHICLE. UPDATED 11/23/11
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 04/12/2011
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 7/1/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10402091
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: WE HAVE OWNED SEVERAL GOOD FORD VEHICLES IN THE PAST, UP UNTIL NOW. THE SUBJECT: 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID AND PROBLEMS WITH THE ABS. WE NOW UNDERSTAND THIS IS A COMMON RECURRING PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE. THE MASTER BRAKE CYLINDER IS DEFECTIVE IN WHAT APPEARS TO BE CONSISTENT WITH ALL OF THE FORDS HYBRID ESCORT LINE...DUE TO A DESIGN FLAW THAT FORD REFUSES TO RECOGNIZE. THE COST OF REPAIRS CAN RANGE FROM $1500-4000 AND AS A CONSUMERS RIGHTS ADVOCATE I WONT HESITATE TO BLOW THE WHISTLE ON THIS ONE...MY DAUGHTER DRIVES THIS CAR, AND SHE ALMOST HAD WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN A SERIOUS IF NOT A FATAL ACCIDENT...;NO RESPONSE FROM THE BRAKING SYSTEM AND IT IS NOW IN THE SHOP.. AND WE CANT AFFORD FOR HER NOT TO CONTINUE TO GO TO COLLEGE, AND WE CANT AFFORD TO BUY HER A NEW CAR. WHEN IT COMES TO SAFETY, FORD SHOULD BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE...THE ONLY RESPONSE EVER FROM THEM TO ANYONE ELSE WHO HAS HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM, HAS BEEN A WEAK APOLOGY. WHAT DOES IT TAKE FOR YOUR ORGANIZATION TO INITIATE A RECALL OR AT LEAST A RESPONSIBLE REPLY FROM FORD. I CANT EVEN FEEL GOOD ABOUT SELLING THIS CAR TO ANYONE ELSE UNTIL THIS DEFECT IS RESOLVED. AT LEAST TOYOTA DID WHAT THEY WERE SUPPOSE TO WHEN THEY HAD THE "STUCK" ACCELERATION ISSUE...BUT FORD - AN AMERICAN (?) COMPANY THAT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME...WITH SHABBINESS LIKE THIS ITS NO WONDER OUR TECHNOLOGIES BEING CONSTANTLY "SOLD (OUT)" ) AND EXPORTED OVERSEAS. ON BEHALF OF ALL AMERICANS WHO PREFER TO PURCHASE USA MADE PRODUCTS AND EXPECT THE QUALITY WE DESERVE, I EXPECT A RESPONSE FROM YOU THAT ADDRESSES THIS HORRENDOUS PROBLEM THAT CAN CAUSE DEATH ON THE HIGHWAYS, IF NOT ALREADY...IT SURELY WILL IN TIME. HOW EFFECTIVE AND INFLUENTIAL IS YOUR ORGANIZATION, OR IS IT ANOTHER FACADE THAT HAS BEEN DESIGNED TO MAKE US THINK OUR SAFETY RIGHTS ARE PROTECTED FROM THE FLAWS OF BIG BUSINESS WHEN THEY REALLY A? FORTUNATELY, I KNOW SEVERAL CONGRESSMEN WHO WILL NOT LIKE TO RECEIVE A COPY OF THIS MESSAGE BUT ULTIMATELY WILL. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 05/16/2011
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 5/19/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10395883
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, ELECTRIC
Details: STARTED CAR AND RED BRAKE LIGHT AND YELLOW ABS LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON. MESSAGE TO SEEK BRAKE SERVICE ASAP. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 04/13/2011
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 4/14/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10394379
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID 127,000 "I-95" MILES (IT STILL AVERAGES 34.3 MPG) GREAT, RELIABLE, LOW REPAIR COST VEHICLE, UNTIL RECENTLY: BRAKE WARNING LIGHT AND "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" WARNING APPEARS ON DASH INTERMITTENTLY. CAVALIER FORD IN CHESAPEAKE, VA QUOTED A REPAIR COST OF $3900.00 TO REPLACE THE ABS MODULE AND HCU MODULE ($3200.00 PARTS, $700.00 LABOR). AFTER CALLING AROUND THE NORFOLK, VA AREA, APPARENTLY THE HCU MODULE IS ONLY AVAILABLE THROUGH FORD (WHAT A SURPRISE), AND NO OTHER REPAIR SHOP WILL "TOUCH" OUR 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID TO REPLACE THE ABS MODULE. WOW, THATS GREAT TO HEAR...THAT MEANS THAT IM BASICALLY A PRISONER TO FORD???? *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 03/27/2011
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 4/6/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10393646
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD ESCAPE HEV. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE ABS AND BRAKE WARNING LIGHTS SUDDENLY ILLUMINATED. HE CONTINUED TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE BUT WHEN HE ATTEMPTED TO APPLY PRESSURE TO THE BRAKES, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THEY PERFORMED A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WHICH CONCLUDED THAT THE HCU ASSEMBLY WAS FAULTY AND PERFORMED THE NECESSARY REPAIRS. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 100,000.
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 03/28/2011
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 3/29/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10392494
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: SERVICE BRAKE SYS MESSAGE ON 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID ALONG WITH BRAKE WARNING LIGHT. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 03/14/2011
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 3/22/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10377925
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: MASTER CYLINDER ON 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID FAILED - 73940 MILES ON CAR. MOSTLY CITY & HIGHWAY DRIVING - NO RACING OR OTHER KIND OF DRIVING. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 01/17/2011
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 1/19/2011 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10373322
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING, THE ABS AND BRAKE LIGHTS ILLUMINATED AND THE BRAKE PEDAL EXTENDED TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE CONTACT HAD TO USE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP THE VEHICLE. THE ELECTRONIC BRAKES FAILED TWICE AND THE VEHICLE LOST CONTROL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHO RECALIBRATED THE HYBRID ELECTRONIC BRAKES BUT THE FAILURE OCCURRED AGAIN TWO WEEKS LATER. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER WHO STATED THAT THE MASTER CYLINDER AND THE HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 60,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 60,500.
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 11/29/2010
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 12/29/2010 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10373116
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: THE ISSUE I AM HAVING IS THE SAME AS DESCRIBED IN COMPLAINT #10318942. INTERMITTENTLY ON DRY PAVEMENT DURING NORMAL BRAKING, THE ABS WILL ENGAGE (WITH INDICATOR LIGHT FLASHING ON) AND YOU CAN FEEL THE TYPICAL ABS ON/OFF PULSING OF THE BRAKES IN THE BRAKE PEDAL. IT APPEARS THE CAR IS ALSO TAKING LONGER TO COME TO A FULL STOP WHEN THIS OCCURS. I HAVE REPORTED IT MULTIPLE TIMES AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP, BUT THEY ARE UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE. THIS HAPPENS TO ME REGULARLY (A COUPLE TIMES A WEEK).
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 01/01/2008
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 12/28/2010 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10369851
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: TSB 05-8-5 STATES: ABS AND BRAKE WARNING LAMP ON WITH DTC C1526 - DTC C1524 MAY ALSO BE PRESENT VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO 2/11/2005. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 12/09/2010
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 12/10/2010 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10352205
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: 2005 ESCAPE HYBRID BRAKE FAILURE. I TRIED TO STOP AND BRAKES ONLY WENT HALF WAY DOWN. I RELEASED AND PUSHED AGAIN, HAD TO USE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP OTHERWISE I WOULD HAVE GONE THROUGH A STORE FRONT WINDOW. TOOK TO FORD DEALER AND FOUND OUT IT WAS THE MASTER CYLINDER/SOLENOID. PER FORDS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 0585 ISSUED 8/5/05, THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE CORRECTED BY INSTALLING A REVISED MASTER CYLINDER. THIS COULD HAVE KILLED ME AND THE PEOPLE INSIDE THE BUSINESS. IF THIS IS A KNOWN, VERY DANGEROUS PROBLEM, THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 08/24/2010
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 8/26/2010 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10350198
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID - THE CAR WOULD BEGIN TO SKID AND SLIDE WHEN APPROACHING A STOP REGARDLESS OF THE VEHICLE SPEED OR ROAD CONDITIONS. THE ABS WOULD KICK IN AND THE INDICATOR WOULD COME ON TELLING THE DRIVER THAT THE CAR WAS SLIDING. THIS IS A DANGEROUS CONDITION AS THE CAR WOULD NOT STOP WHEN THE BRAKES ARE PRESSED. AFTER INVESTIGATING ONLINE, I DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL OF HYBRID VEHICLE. MANY OTHER DRIVERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME THING. THE SUGGESTION WAS THAT THE TONE RINGS WERE CRACKED OR BROKEN. MY REPAIR SHOP DISCOVERED THAT BOTH OF MINE WERE BROKEN AND ONE AXLE NEEDED REPLACED. INTERESTINGLY, WHEN THE MECHANICS TOOK THE CAR ON A TEST DRIVE TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM, THE CAR WOULD REV BEYOND 4 RPMS, THEN THE ENGINE QUIT AND THE DASHBOARD READOUT STATED TO PULL OVER AND STOP THE CAR IMMEDIATELY. THE GAS ENGINE QUIT AND THE CAR WOULD NOT GO OVER 20 MPH. AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF AND WAITING A FEW SECONDS, THE CAR WAS RESTARTED AND THE COMPUTER/CAR RESET ITSELF AND WOULD RUN AGAIN. THE SAME THING HAPPENED ON AN OPEN HIGHWAY GOING 60 MPH. THE INDICATOR LIGHTS WENT OFF AND THE WARNINGS TO PULL OVER AND STOP THE CAR IMMEDIATELY DISPLAYED. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE BY FORD AS THEY HAVE ISSUED DTC C1526. THIS PARTICULAR BLOG (HTTP://BLOG.YAGELSKI.COM/2010/01/MY-FORD-ESCAPE-HYBRID-BRAKE-REPAIR.HTML) EXPLAINS THE PROBLEM AS WELL AS THOSE OF MANY OTHERS WHO ARE ALSO EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE, WITH GREATER DETAIL AND ACCURACY THAN I CAN. PLEASE DO WHATEVER YOU CAN TO FORCE FORD TO ISSUE A RECALL ON THIS INCREDIBLE IMPORTANT AND EXPENSIVE SAFETY MATTER. THANK YOU. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 07/15/2010
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 8/17/2010 


CONSUMER COMPLAINT: ODI Case Number: 10347613
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
Details: 2005 FORD ESCAPE HYBRID - BRAKE FAILURE. CAR HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN HARSHLY OR IN HARSH CONDITIONS. ON JULY 31ST, APPLIED BRAKES AT STOPLIGHT, ABS LIGHT CAME ON AND BRAKES FAILED. DEALER UNSURE HOW TO FIX. *TR
Occurrences: 1
Injuries: 0
Fail Date: 07/31/2010
Deaths: 0
Date added to database: 8/6/2010 

It would appear as though these cases are related to the problem as described in Ford's Technical Service Bulletin TSB 0585 (issued August 5, 2005), which states:

ABS AND BRAKE WARNING LAMP ON WITH DTC C1526 - DTC C1524 MAY ALSO BE PRESENT VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO 2/11/2005

ISSUE: Some 2005 Escape Hybrid vehicles built prior to 2/11/2005, may exhibit the yellow ABS and the red brake warning lamps illuminating after the engine is started, and an increase in brake pedal effort. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) C1526 (Brake Pedal Travel Sensor) will be present in the ABS module, C1524 (Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Calibration Incomplete) may also be present.

ACTION: Install a revised master cylinder. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 206-06.

PART NUMBER PART NAME: 5M6Z-2140-B Master Cylinder

My experience, and that of others, has been that the resolution also includes the replacement of the defective HCU. At this point, the repair of the poorly designed brake system is the sole responsibility of the vehicle owner. I believe that the only way Ford will address this important safety matter is if the NHTSA will take notice. If you have had a problem with the regenerative braking system on your Ford Escape or Mecury Mariner Hybrid, please consider notifying the NHTSA. By contacting the NHTSA, you may help bring this important safety matter to the attention of other owners of these vehicles.

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Verizon FiOS - Remote DVR Access Problems

One of the great things about the Verizon FiOS set-top boxes being IP (Internet Protocol) enabled is that it provides the opportunity for the devices to be securely accessed by remote applications. 

I find it very convenient to use these apps to see what is already recorded, or scheduled to be recorded on the DVR ("Digital Video Recorder"), while in a remote location. It's also nice to be able to schedule new recordings when I'm are not at home with the remote control in-hand. Verizon offers this capability for all FiOS customers via the Verizon website and through applications for mobile devices like the iPhone, iPad, and Android.

I had been using this feature while traveling on business or out with friends for several months without a problem. Then, for no apparent reason, the app broke.

[sigh]

Suddenly, whenever I would attempt to connect to the FiOS DVR from the Verizon website, iPhone, or iPad, I would receive an error message that stated "Set-Top Box is not responding," "Bad Gateway," or "Network connection timed out." I chalked it up to a gremlin and waited a few days before trying again. Unfortunately, I got the same result.

Searching online, I found that this seemed to be a rather common problem for Verizon. There were a number of people who complained that the Verizon Support Representatives were not of much help when trying to fix this issue. I can confirm that, as my own chat session started with the rep telling me that the iPhone and iPad were not capable of remotely accessing the FiOS DVR... which would probably be a real surprise to the Verizon folks who designed and coded the iPhone and iPad app.

After spending way too much time trying to work with the Verizon support representatives, I was able to easily resolve the problem myself. If you are having this same issue with remote DVR control capability, this blog post may be of some help.

First, two real basic things to check. 

     Is the DVR turned on?

     Is the FiOS router turned on?

Yes. I know that should be obvious, but you may be surprised...

Based upon the information I've been able to gather, the remote DVR error messages are related to a port mapping issue on the Verizon back-end system. As you may have already determined, rebooting the set-top box or FiOS router does not correct the problem. Apparently, Verizon Tech Support can perform some remote magic to fix this mapping problem, and I believe that magic is simply rebooting the ONT ("Optical Network Terminal"). 

The ONT is the device that provides the interface between the Verizon fiber optic network and the Ethernet / coax system in your house. This device is most often located in some other place away from the FiOS router, usually mounted on the outside of the building. Very close by the ONT, on the inside of the building, is the device's power supply. The unit includes a AC power transformer, AC to DC power supply and conditioner, and a large battery to provide uninterruptible power to the ONT. In order to reboot the ONT on-site, you must first disconnect the AC power (i.e. unplug the power supply from the 120 volt wall outlet) and then disconnect the backup battery.

Warning! Rebooting the ONT will temporarily disable your connection to the Verizon FiOS system. Be certain that all of your network users are aware that their Internet connection and television signal will be interrupted during this process.

To disconnect the backup battery, open the swinging battery door on the ONT power supply and disconnect the battery plug to the power supply (circled in blue in the photo) by squeezing the connector's tabs and pulling straight out. Wait about ten seconds and then reconnect the backup battery and plug the power supply back into the AC outlet. 



Once the power has been restored, the ONT will reboot, resetting the port mapping which should quickly fix the problems that you have been experiencing with remote DVR access. This process is straight-forward, simple, and doesn't require having to deal with Verizon Tech Support!

[yea!]